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The table is referring to 60 degrees Celsius. I’d say *everyone* lives in a climate below that temperature 🙂 NM and the other jacketed cables are rated at that lower rating due to bundling derating concerns. If you have more than three current carrying conductors in conduit you are required to...

You’re showing the 60 degree table for jacketed conductors. If you look at the 75 degree table you can go 35 Amps. 90 degree table for THHN or open air conductors (which the ones coming out the head are) you can put 40 amps on 10awg. also since they do not make a 35 amp breaker, you’re allowed...

10awg THHN is good for 40 amps in open air (not in conduit) If you're using NM or other types of jacketed cable, you'll have to derate accordingly You're good for 33 amps, 240v or 67 amps 120v (since you'll be pulling off both legs at 120v and therefore be using two 10awg wires) No single...

I bought mine from tractor supply. They’re 51r’s

First off, I STRONGLY recommend a proper transfer switch with main lockout for any generator hookup. That being said, last major hurricane we had, before I had the proper hookup, we ran the whole house off a 19kw whacker g25. Jerked out the meter, and suicide whipped it into the line side...

The big auction site where you buy that sort of thing. They’ve been listing one or two a week here lately.

Absolutely they will. And don’t let the electrician scare you away from it with horror stories. Today’s aluminum wire isn’t the same as the house burning stuff from our grandparents day. It just has to be MHF or dual rated. They can pull individual xhhw as well. Just can’t use single rated...

If you get em to run aluminum MHF the wire big enough to hold 100 amps is actually cheaper

Ahhh. That makes me feel better about it. If that was just the wire you were getting screwed!

You could buy a 500’ roll of 2/0, 2/0, 2/0, 1 MHF for$1500 from Home Depot. That’s big enough cable to pull 125amps at 100’ with less than 3% voltage drop. And you’d have 400’ left over. Tell em to sharpen their pencil a bit on that wire or just go to your local electrical supply house and buy...

Check the regulations on towing a trailer with that much diesel before “making it as large as possible”. I believe the magic number is “119 gallons in a single container” before requiring placards and hasmat endorsements.

I just picked up a 1040 with 5 hours on it for $5500. Add the tax and premium and two new batteries and I’m in it for $6800. Can’t really best that. They’re selling the computer units now as well, and I picked up a spare for $250. Also with hurricane season upon us, the 803’s are selling for...

Check out the last pic in the very first post. I made a custom elbow to assist with draining the oil.

Amazon prime day provided a noco 5x2 for just $89 so I couldn’t turn that down. Got it installed and the new tractor supply 51R’s (Napa kept giving me the run around). Now I just gotta wash her off, pour a pad, and wire her in to the (way too big) 125 amp transfer switch I installed next to the...

The TM claims .63gph. I don’t know at what perfect of full load that number is taken from. I’ll have to do some research and real world testing once I get it all set and hooked up.

Not overly ecstatic about how the fuel line route looks, but it’s functional. May pull off the end cover and see about routing it out of view…..one day.

It’s a two part automotive type paint from a company called Matthews. We use it to paint signs. The color was matched to Pantone 19-0622TPX

I’ll get around to it eventually 😂

Got the genny set on top of the fuel tank. Just need to stop by the hydraulic shop and have a feed hose made up and I’m golden. Paint is bout a half a shade off but it was a free paint job so I’m not complaining.

The doors add an additional 18” of width to the unit on each side when opened.