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I certainly didn't mean to make you feel bad, My mistake, please forgive me. I just wanted to point you to the right info. @Ronmar gave you great advice, though reviewing the write up you attached the $700 (EMS300-1224-D-00) part listed is the remote battery disconnect which is directly inward...

I think @Ronmar addressed this in post#8 in this very thread sometime back? Reread paragraphs 1 and 4 in Post#8. Where in Texas are you all?

Four outer hubs: complete planetary 2:1 reduction gears with the matching hub covers, no shims: $440. We removed these to install EcoHubs. All appears in good shape. FOB Texas hill country 78028. We could delivery a reasonable distance for a fee, or buyer to arrange shipping.

Good condition, one has minor damage. Set of 4 $98 Hutchinson 19207SOCN12414420 MFR-62161 FOB Texas hill country 78028 I believe FedEX Ground will take these without a pallet—

All good—

By the time I looked, all gone =/ Perhaps next time—

I thought the curb weight on these was just under 25,000#, 3,000# is a lot of what?

Since pulling the pins off the M939A2 we have had no electrical issues. Dana software works, J1939 and J1708 busses work. All good, just went through a few resistors while figuring it all out—

A1R truck?

My suggestion is to post your specific question and very likely someone here will be able to assist—

Welcome. Not many -A1R's out running loose in the wild. I think you need the MIL software for A1R TM's still?

You are welcome—

Well I planned to go to a friend's shop, but have a brass drift. Always good to see a friend though. Here is this morning's work. Putting the left rear back together. Did something really dumb: flipped the wheel hub over while holding a new CTIS seal in my hand. Crushed it. There goes $50...

I am still wondering how long it was like that. We have at least 4,000 miles since purchased. More since we did EcoHubs early and just recently received the reflashed ECM from you. Thank you. I like those rolls too, will have to check the grit of what I have on hand. Another point of...

I wanted to avoid removing material, focusing upon the deposits of what I think was burnt grease. Fortunately the bearing didn't score the spindle—

The part I haven't figured out: The ungreased bearing and CTIS taking on gear lube are unrelated? The MV gods saved my spindle?

Soaked in parts solvent; cleaned up with parts brush, scotch brite hand pad; finished with safety razor. How can I do better? I went ahead and ordered a new race, if I am awaiting a bearing why not replace the race, too?

The spindle and inner bearing race cleaned up pretty well, feels smooth and silky. There is one spot on the race I don't like the feel, though spinning our good inner bearing in it sounds right when compared to spinning in the other inner race. The ungreased bearing sounds bad and feels...

No idea about mounting on a 1083, but a friend of mine that off-roads months at a time uses GeoPros behind his Jeep Wrangler. Here is a link to his latest adventure: Alaska— on a Jeep forum if you search for @wibornz he has threads talking about the trailers and his mods One to his youtube...

When packing our 4x4 vehicles we use this small pail from NAPA: I didn't even think about a MilSpec, just grabbed another pail off the shelf. Specs "Aluminum Complex, NLGI #2 Grease, Water Resistant, Superior Rust & Corrosion Protection, Typical Drop Point 470 Deg F"