Search results

You are going to have to make sure you are getting fuel to the fuel inlet, that IP does not draw fuel from the governor housing, that is the excess, the last place the fuel goes before being returned to the tank.

I am sorry, :( if someone changed the flanges they went to allot of time and effort to screw things up!! It's always fun to fix other folks screw ups!!

I see, what flanges did they use?

That looks like a 12K inner (plunge) end to me, there is more than one inner 12K plunge end, the others are for later model trucks. The A2 12K trucks use the same drive flanges as the Basic/A1 10K trucks. Is it possible you are trying to fit the wrong ( ECV/REV) half shafts?

If he is using an 8 speed than that is not a gen I or II transmission and would have no bearing on this subject, not a member so I cannot look. EDIT, actually I am, no this conversion has nothing in common with the OPs post.

Here is a link with some visual explanations, IIRC you will need a conversion flex plate and a crank extension, the crank extension gets the 4L80 torque converter correctly spaced into the transmission...

I had to do the reverse when I installed a 6L80 behind the Detroit engine, I had to use a spacer between the bell housing and engine rather than a spacer between the torque converter and crank.

They make adapters to be able to use the legacy transmissions on the LS motors, the crank to rear engine flange depth is different, and as TOBASH said you should use a gasser torque converter. The info is not hard to find...

Unless you are running continuous digital modes or my wife is talking on the radio the actual average load is rather small so I would run them off of the 12V tap

Be VERY careful with that missing CDR valve, you now have a direct opening into the intake manifold, one little nut,washer or any other trash gets in there and the motor is TOAST! The very first thing you need to do is get one on that motor!!

Have you gone through everything bolted to the engine, all the mounts like the alt etc?

No problem, if you look at the HMMWV forum. forum at the top of the list of posts there is a line called "Thread title" Start typing on that line, it is as it says the thread title, a box will automatically drop down for the content of your post.

The fuse is to protect the wiring, switch etc. I would think 10A would be fine.

Yes you should use the same 24V feed for both functions, switched (run) or unswitched, of course it should be fused

Curious was the panel specified for 24V?

Use a DPDT switch

I can fix that, be back in a minute

That is awesome, what did that panel cost? My main problem with custom stuff like that is I am always wandering around with ideas so it would be difficult to settle on a design.

Actually this can be simply done with a SPDT switch, just cut the wire on the light side of the shifter switch and bring both sides to the switch. Or break the reverse light wire anywhere along its path, same thing. This will prevent back feeding the run circuit.

The only caveat is that if you put the trans in reverse while you have the lights in by-pass and the run switch off it will try to back feed the run circuit. This would seem to be a very rare occurrence as you are not likely to put the trans in reverse without the truck running. There are two...