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So I’ll explain why I’m asking. I just finished up a 3,500 mile road trip with my 2003 M1078A1 ex-Air Force truck with 13,500 miles on it. 10,000 miles I’ve driven over the last 8 years. I’ve converted it into an expedition vehicle and she weighs 28,000lbs fully loaded with full tanks. My wife...

Correct, so that's why Steve's method would take into account for spider gears/bearings and the hub bearing wear. Setting it to the factory settings would only take in account the hub bearings not the spider gears/bearings.

There has to be a different result. New gears with precise new parts vs old gears and parts with wear and break in. If it doesn’t matter then if everything is currently running good and no issues at all, why would anyone bother even though they say it should be done annually, unless there is...

I know I'm waking up an old post and I"m hoping someone has figured this out. I just read this entire Forum and I'm still not certain which method of setting the gear lash is better. Also no one ever mentioned how to precisely measure the lash using Steve's method??????? Which I would agree that...

I'm also a Mechanical engineer and fix my own things. I outlined how you can do it in my earlier post if you have any questions let me know.

I built this which allowed me to change the transmission by my self. In the TM it shows how to make a lifting bracket that bolts to the transmission and is a perfect balance point for a single point lift. Using a small chain hoist I lifted it just enough to take the weight off then after...

New one is installed and working. pulled the old one apart and it appears that I could have just unscrewed the set screw then unscrewed the plastic cap continue taking it all apart cleaned it really well tightened everything up on reassembly add a little RTV then screw the cap back on. So in...

Well....picked up the new switch from napa this morning, removed the old switch and guess what? The thread on is 1/4 NPT not 1/8 NPT so I'll be making an adapter bushing to save me from a 30 mile round trip back to town.

Thanks for the heads up before I start diving into that project!!! I’m surprised I have seen more of this subject here in steel soldiers. Or maybe it’s like listening to my wife I just ignored it! 😂

I’ve been keeping it unplugged until I need to air down or up and recently installed a switch to do this. And honestly only needed to do that maybe four different times in the last 3,500 miles. So I’m leaning more to my earlier theory and may just try to implement the earlier suggestion and put...

Thanks, Sounds like I’ll be ordering the Napa version.

I definitely have not did all of that PM work sounds expensive and extremely extensive for annual PMs. I thought the rear axle had wet bearings. I have to give all that a thought. And in the meantime I’ll do the sniff test.

🤣, That’s not a bad idea.

Back to this old problem..... So back in September of 2021 I did the soapy water at the rear axle vent area and cycled the CTIS and no bubbles. So never found any cause of this problem and moved on. Well after 3,500 mile trip it's obvious it's still occurring occasionally. I just did another...

After finding the source of my small oil leak, it's coming out of the oil pressure switch. The original switch is the NASON 19207-12419189-002 or the short number is "12419189" mid west military's supply shows one with number 12419189-001 and it looks a different than mine, eastern surplus and...

Yes the ex brake disengages when the brake pedal is depressed. After doing real world testing I applied +12v to the k10 relay coil during ex braking and it did back feed and disengaged the ex brake. I then tested and found a single wire on plug J308 pin 7 that when you apply +12v directly to it...

Once again RONMAR you amaze me with your skills at reading wiring schematics. Just finished the test drive and you are correct pin 4 has 24v+ during ex brake engagement. Now to connect a 24vdc relay and hook it up to the brake lights. My initial thought was to apply 12+ to the trucks brake light...

Shout out to RONMAR for his posting of wire schematics and excellent advice and knowledge.

Well that project is finished. It was actually pretty straight forward after identifying the wires it was just a matter of splicing the four wires into a longer cable to the switch.

Well I hear the solenoid latch when warm up is turned on but K16 relay does not light up momentarily and no voltage on pin 4. So I’ll have to get a passenger and go for a test drive to test the theory.