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Wow, Great job.. Not your usual rattlecan paint job. Sure like to get an enclosure for mine.......

That was in the TM, wasn't it?

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Tom, I don't know why but all the books say 12 qts. also. If you put 12 qts. in the engine it will be pretty dam- full of oil. If you got a copy of the original Military Specs" back when Gamagoat.com was functioning, you'll notice that it calls for 9 qts. The books are invaluable but they are...

THAT"S why manuals are useful....................

If you like a little work now and then, you'll never be sorry.

Great progress Joe!! You do know a Goat never carried a spare, right? I do tho, it's too much work putting the truss kit on..

They can be driven with out the carrier but tend to get squirlly at speed. A well tuned 353 in a Goat will give you 13 to 15 MPG. Mine is getting tired but still manages 14 MPG on level ground, at 6500 feet in altitude. On hills, forget it.

Charlie6, the door pictured is driver side. Hinges are forward, latch is at rear. Ref: page 20-109, TM9-2320-242-20-3-2, November 1980 The doors swing forward, out of the way, up against mirror to give clearance to entry. Ref: pass door pictured open, page 20-138, TM9-2320-242-20-3-2, Nov. 1980

Can you show that MWO? The engine sits in ruber mounts, that means all high amp. electrical draw would travel through transmission and transfer case to, again, body ground. Great for gears. There are two original ground spots. One on the engine, passenger side and one to the body.

You're welcome. Nothing strange about bleeding. Farthest from the master first. Be real carefull about removing the bleeder hose, one drop of "sillycone" will destroy the shoe. It's one of the best lubricants known and doesn't belong on a brake surface. Finger tight the axle center bolt to...

Arm yourself with a 44 mag. and shoot the SOB as he drives away in your truck. But, then that would be racism wouldn't it.

Got it.. Thank you!!!

When you do get in it says 0 available.

If you want a vehicle that you don't have to work on buy a little red wagon. The Goat will put any HUMV to shame any time. A little common sense when using it, not popping wheelees and jacking up the Gov. to go 70 mph and you'll never break a U-joint. If you don't understand mechanics 101 then...

Wasn't the purpose of this exercise to free up the center diff? Just because they take grease doesn't mean they are free. That grease is coming out someplace. The bearing itself has a center depression to hold grease.(1/8 inch wide) The bearing surface may be stuck and the grease not getting to...

Those are these. Same, just a different angle. They are at each end of the diff, as in the picture. they are just disassembled.

That's all there is Joe. As you can see in the pictures, they are just very hard, metal to metal, bearing surface. They do not move often. Grease them regularly. Clean and polish, as best you can, then clean the other side, on the diff, grease good and reassemble. Make sure they revolve freely...

The "Quick disconnect" is the fuel connection between the tractor and carrier. Sometimes the air connection is also a "Quick Disconnect". Good job!! You've just done more work on your Goat than most will ever do, other than hit it with a can of spray paint.. Good Job Joe!

It's not a big job. Just support the carrier and after seperating the U joint carefully push it away. Be sure to pull the retaining bolts out of the carrier attachment bolts before trying to take them out. Also a good idea to bleed the carrier breaks after reconnecting the quick disconnect...