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I suspect you are getting Chinese knockoff switches. They are known to vary widely in their activation temps. From what I can tell, most of the switches you see for sale are the repops. This is what my known genuine switch looked like. Thick heat sealed plastic. Expired shelf life date.

You are really going to have to start with a thorough cleaning. Strip off everything removable. Top, seats, insulation boards and padding... Then go after it with a scraping tool/flat bladed screwdriver to bust up the compacted filth in all the cubby boxes and crevices. Then shop vac all...

Just for reference...my buddy had this style at one time...

That's how mine was. Had batteries but from 2010 Everything at auction just about comes with dead/no batteries. They just slave start them...which is the preferred method of jump starting. Fast, and PVT Goof-proof . I had pre purchased two new 6TL batteries from O'reillys for 200 each, new...

Ive been getting the occasional blinky wait light recently and after reading this, I took a voltmeter to the batteries after disconnecting them and sure enough...front battery was at 12.8v rear was at 12.0v I have now cleaned and swapped them and the low one is on a charger to see what happens

Thats a great point. But I would argue that many seats fail that way in a rear end collision. Its like the crumple zones in cars or aircraft seats. The lack of upper torso/head restraints would cause me to surmise that maybe the seat back reclining you a little would be preferable. My first...

Thanks I cant really take credit for this "design" though... i've seen it before in other seats. I just had access to the stuff to make them

I just copied the original bolt spacing but I want to make a new set to close up that gap so everything i set on the seat doesnt funnel through it into the black hole behind the seat

Sorry about that confusing pic...the void is actually filled by the door blank. I cut mine back to make the blank doors open as half doors.

I had to make new to have enough meat to have the slide track. Both sides of both seats are identical. The knob was from home deeps Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Yeah, sounds like these basic rear seat backs are what you need.

First thing I did was change out the flat front seats for the high backs. I replaced the two brackets that connected the upper and lower seat cushions. They were too upright and crammed you against the wheel. I fabbed these up that let the seat back recline.

Id give you the measurements of mine, but someone in the long, long ago cut mine down from a two man and it was too long still to fit in the correct brackets. I fabbed my brackets from 18 g stainless and they are snug. I would measure the width of your bed, and subtract 1/2". The GI...

Keep in mind that the base is the battery box and cant be easily moved. Now remove the thinly cushioned GI seat and install a thicker, taller bestop jeep seat or similar...You will probably end up with less room. Do you have the newer high back GI seats, or the original style pop-tart cushions?

If you can get in there with a drill or angle drill, Drill it out till you are just undersize from the Size it takes to tap the hole. You will eventually be left with just a hollow thread that comes out. Then re-tap the hole just enough to clean it up and install a new one

It is Important for easy cold starting. It also can cause the engine to be louder(clatter) than it needs to be if it is not functioning. It wont keep the engine from running, but its wise to have that working

Try this for the 6.2L...P/N 14077122 https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-thermostat-14077122/?c=YT1jaGV2cm9sZXQ%3D

Arg....stant parts are so random in quality that I don't ever recommend them. My rule of thumb it anything that senses or controls temps, timing, or pressures I only use OEM unless its unobtainium. I got this for my 6.5 for 12 bucks shipped...

You gotta get a quality thermostat. OEM if possible. But they can be found locally for a bit less. The proper stat has a thick body shell and is "balanced" IIRC with an opening and closing spring(?)

I think for the taillights to be DOT approved, they need to have a certain amount of reflective surface. That's why the Civilian H1 used the common Grote/Jeep style taillights with the reflective ring