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Yeah, get on it alternator boy.
I need to get on the sending the enable code. I haven't even driven the truck for two months. Work is killing me.
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I used some sticky backed heat and sound insulation made for replacements, probably $130 shipped, I posted in this thread on the details about a year ago. I am traveling, so forgot manufacture. Worked out great.
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I weighed up the components minus the short tube (I couldn't find my spare) and then the counterbalance and nut to see if it was off by stock. Anyone have a weight on the short tube with connector nut?
Edit: guess the short tube also has small bolts as well. Need that full weight to complete...
Well, the counterbalance was just fine. I am wondering if there are multiple versions of the counterbalance. I grabbed a couple in KS and will report back on those vs mine. I have that ultra cool scale from my AC recharge, so I will weigh and report back. After that it will be the lug nut...
Swapped out the old axle vents. The two back ones let out a good puff when unscrewed, figure that was my issue. Did DOT fittings, but one is not holding when pulled, so will replace. Haven't permanently mounted it, still trying to find the best spot. Needed 50 ft roll to get it done...
Ok, bumping this thread up with a small cooking event we just did for our garage neighbors. I have two griddles (thanks Jason) but only needed one, and did up brats and some REALLY greasy hamburgers. We also finally got the ovens running, and we did chocolate chip cookies of course. Remember...
Yup. Sucks when it happens, and you get super nervous even with new ones back on for a little bit. I still listen for the wheels rubbing when the axle twisted on mine. Yuck. Then I got extra LEO attention while I was on the side of the road. I have yet to install / weld the washers, and...
Congrats. I have a shake at 28-30, then 45, and I think one more. Was the lug placement scientific how you did it, or just trial and error? Reading this thread, I'm more intrigued to fix it. Everyone said it was normal. Mine are goodyears and CTIS. Checking truck today but pretty sure the...
I used actual Perkins oil and fuel, but they were NOS, a bit old. I tend to like Napa, for some reason Fram always felt cheaper quality, but that could be a perception. There are lots of back and forth on this on many other forums. Proof that it's inferior, and even Fram admitting that they...
If you want the originals (I could only find OLD NOS), they are getting a little sparse on the Bay.
I also got snooty and ordered new fuel line from the UK (300psi) but the civi stuff would work just fine.
GENUINE PERKINS OIL FILTER ASSEMBLY 140517050
Perkins Powerpart Fuel Filter 26560017...
Mine isn't a knob turn and it's on, it does need me to hold on to it cranking for about 5 seconds longer than I think it should. I assume you are also warming the glow plugs each time right? Also check the fuel bulb to see if it's holding the full pressure. If you get a soft squeeze out of it...
Ok, Colorado member sounding off. Never been there, but the educated guess is that all of these came from Carson or Ft Riley. My truck is a Riley truck, and love it, I bought it from a private seller who just flipped it. I paid double the auction. It's not the price, it's the condition...
I just have a hunch my axle vents are blocked up, and that's why I got some oil out of my pinion seal. I got some new take off ones in KS before, but I think I'll fix this for good. Ordered all the parts to swap my axle breathers to be be brought up to the cab. Did DOT fittings and tubing to...
From my previous Internet fu research, NU22B is a good replacement for R22, and claims it is compatible with any oil in compressor (mineral or Polyolester (POE)), where using R407C recommends adding POE on swaps. The old oils and R407C aren't really that compatible, hence the need for the POE...
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