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well, i'll have to look again, i thought i got it from the LDT engine specs as the field expedient way to set the fuel rate, so 14 is even better!! i may remember to look again, i may not, as i am no longer in control of what i remember!

well, i would say 14 psi as 9 psi is stock setting for the LDT. and max torque may be at a lower rpm, probably about 1900, sometimes HP is not what gets the job done.

190 hp is 400 ft lbs at 2500 rpm. if you just turn up the fuel and set the high idle at 2550, how far away do you think you are?? what i am saying is that i think you are already there and reliability is limiting the rpm. put one on a dyno and see. tom

just a little more progress. mounted new M-35 clutch and PP to 9.0 flywheel, SAE 2 to 3 adapter ring from Cat 3116 mounts spicer 3053. it may not look it, but this is a complete new trans, every little piece except the case and has the .69 OD installed. got turbos and mounting flanges are being...

pull the shaft out and be sure the little pin piece is in position in the end of the shaft and that it goes into the fuel control block so that when the gov control pulls the rod back it lowers the block. with the shaft out you can feel in the hole with a small screw driver to feel the block...

don't forget to pull all the drums and inspect and check the steel lines for rust as well

part number 8327105, fits M35 cab perfectly probably because the old 5 ton used that cab design as well

you all do realize, we are talking about a 5 ton gasser?? old.

I'm only going after 230 hp, but yes it will probably be overpowered. the 3208 motor was only supposed to be 200 hp, but i'm not sure what rpm it was rated at. it laughed at hills even in 5th which was .66 od. i think i need to add 15cc of fuel to the injection specs. have not played with the...

i've got a nos gasser hood, so i think i know!! same at the cab, hinges fit, almost no taper rear to front. thought it would make an interesting front end look on an a2. probably was a 5 ton. if i remember tomorrow, i'll post some pics.

ok, an update, it runs! of course i had no doubt as i rebuilt it and set / primed it all. less than 1/4 turn on the starter and if jumped to life. ordered a new 3 finger pressure plate for $130, a SAE2 to SAE3 adaptor ring from a cat 3116 to mount the 3053 $75, two rebuilt subaru forester turbos...

a hood from a gasser would fix all your front end issues, it's about 6.5" longer and wider at the front, not as much taper. tom

and you can also get used to 2 - 3 mpg!!!

yeah, after bypassing the FDC you almost always have to turn it down.

yes but the point i am making is where were things really set to start with? correctly? how would anyone really know? unless a pump shop had done it recently, no one knows what they have other than to assume that if the seals are still in place it is right, and with the mil 'mechanics' that may...

while that statement MAY be correct, it seems to me that it would also be quite risky given you don't really know if things are set correctly to start with. you really need at least a boost gauge, just a pressure gauge that reads from 0 to 15 psi, and for stock performance manifold pressure at...

just made 27 more OD kits and got main parts for 100 more power steering kits!!

7 psi boost is very low and indicates a fuel or tuning problem. it is just not getting enough fuel to make any power. stock setting is 9 psi and is very conservative. what was your boost in the past?

sadly, much of the info on the internet and also on this forum is simply wrong. all injectors get the same amount of fuel. now it is conceivable that since it is an inline engine, the rear cylinders may run hotter, but from a practical sense, not enough to matter.

next check the wiring diagram. from that you can deduce what is wrong