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I've been enjoying your videos for a number of months now, keep up the great work!

Heck yeah, man! That’s awesome! Great find!

It definitely did something, but the NA 6.5 is a LOUD girl, especially when it’s clanging around 2-3 feet from my head. I would guess that floor mats would help a decent amount with road noise, but as far as engine noise, covering the tunnel did very little. I have two small kids (4 & 7yo)...

I did my center tunnel and bed with the 3/4” 4’x8’ mats (it took 2), it did help with the noise, although not much. I can tell you that working with those mats is a lot of work. I cut some fairly intricate angles around the doghouse and bed tiedowns, etc. but I would expect a bit of a task to...

If it’s anything like my M1123, it’s likely due to the additional 500lbs of black undercoating that covers EVERYTHING underneath. Seriously though, I’m interested in hearing why as well.

I've kicked around the idea of making simple half doors out of plywood, maybe that'll be a "fun" winter project this year. I would love some hard doors, but can't stomach 1/3rd the price of the truck for some sheets of aluminum/fiberglass.

Can I just vent to atmosphere and cap off the system side?

I'm still pretty new to diesels and am a little confused here- Are we talking about the mechanical fuel pump that mates up to the engine, just in front of the starter, but before the radiator down tube, next to the oil pan? This thing- 12342893

A few guys have used short bolts/washers/nuts in the holes and then painted over them. The end result is pretty clean looking and gets lost with all the rivets and such. As far as looking "clunky", that's kinda the name of the game here... it's a HMMVW, not a Porsche. Scratches/dents/dings...

Yes.

With some pressure on the zip-ties holding the unit together, it’s perfectly reliable until the plastic begins to age out. I would love a more reliable setup as I will occasionally realize one of the zip-ties broke and unless I’m really laying into the pedal, I’m not showing brake lights.

It’s an ancient design that should have been changed decades ago. You have two switches linked together- brake lights and torque converter unlock. I’ve found that with a handful of zip-ties holding the zig-zag tight, I can make it about 6 months before I need to replace/inspect whether or not...

I had the same experience- the plastic fin tool fell apart almost immediately. When used with thin aluminum fins, like on an Air Conditioner, I’m sure it would be fine. On the thick steel fins of the HMMWV, it didn’t do a darn thing.

Aye, that’s really clever. I have Black Rhinos, and while I don’t hate them, the plastic bolts are pretty lame. That’s a heck of a lot cooler looking than I expected.

What’s the story with those windows? I’d love to see pics of the radiator/fan setup as well!

Concur. Trying to make this into what you describe will be expensive, time consuming, and still fall short of a Wrangler, IMO. I love the HMMWV, but I sweat in the summer, it's drafty in the winter, it leaks when it rains, stock seats are awful, I need headsets to have a conversation at a...

Sorry to bring up this old thread, but I finally got to the bottom of this one. Checked everything several times, tried various things, replaced a handful of components, the thud kept coming back. Finally, this afternoon, while mowing the lawn, I’m looking at the HMMWV and it dawns on me, maybe...

Very cool, thank you, Hawker!

My 6.5NA can sit at idle for a LONG time before the needle starts to move, especially with the updated gauge/sender. If I start to drive it, though, I get to operating temperature in about 2.5 miles, driving at 25 mph (neighborhood). So it's slow as heck when sitting, but fairly rapid when...

I read somewhere that the "E" code was used when the truck was ear-marked for sale. It's why it appears to be added after the rest of the stencil. Whoever applied my "E" did so sloppily, you can see that there was "A" before they covered it up. Not sure what that's worth, but figured I'd share.