Search results

I think mine had the same fate- arrived with 62 miles, rebuilt at 20, no unit markings, M1123, Barstow.

Mine had a few of these as well. Tagging for more info, as I have no idea.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2008,armada,5.6l+v8,1438226,suspension,coil+spring,7512

I’ve had an aviation setup since I got my HMMWV, I couldn’t imagine driving these beasts without ear pro, nor could I have a conversation with anyone without the headsets.

I'm not correcting you. It's a different mentality with this vehicle, I understand. That said, having owned and wrenched on 30+ cars/truck and 50+ bikes over the years, it's a hard habit to break- associating years with equipment on a vehicle. It's counterintuitive to most people who aren't...

Yellow EESS here - I figure the year/serial would be somewhat relevant for the USMC trucks that were subject to IROAN, as they wouldn't have replaced those components unless something failed, right? I do understand your point here, though. Like any HMMWV, or any .gov vehicle, it's going to be...

Post pics when you do it, I'm too chicken ### to take the lead on this one, but I'll duplicate whatever you come up with. EDIT: I didn't realize that would get flagged - noted. Won't happen again, sorry.

Crummy that all of that would have been avoided with a functioning drain tube. Mine also has a plugged/clogged/smashed one. What is your plan for the drain through the bellhousing? Have it drain on top of the torque converter?

My 1999 does it as well. I use it as my baseline amount of time to warm up before I drive it.

DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE HERE! The sensor grounds to the block, tape will likely affect that and could lead to other issues. The thread is tapered somewhat and seals fine at proper torque, the tape is unnecessary. Regarding the swap, if you’re putting it up in the air, it will help things. I did...

If you have the 200a alternator, I really can’t see how you would be able to do itquickly enough to not lose a good amount of coolant, but maybe if you’re quick, it’s possible. If you just changed it, you could always just dump it back in, I suppose. I needed a flush anyway, but draining it from...

Finally got it sorted- bought the updated gauge and sender from Kascar, now it seems that everything is working as it should be. Apparently the old gauge was reading about 30 degrees high. Odd failure, but I’m just glad it’s sorted. For anyone looking at making this change- you will need to...

I actually ended up going with Kascar for the replacements, sound advice there. Next time I'll stick with my usual mentality - Buy Once, Cry Once.

They're a site sponsor, so I hope this doesn't go against regs, but Midwest Military Equipment sent me a generic Timing Delay Module that looks like some dude made it in his basement, and the Thermostatic switch is clearly not original, either. Neither has the metal wire tags, the TDM has no...

Im experiencing this right now. I’m working on some elements of my cooling system and have bought a handful of parts - searched for using NSN numbers - that are not OEM, but rather some kind of knock-off. No indication that they weren’t OEM from the description, so I installed them and didn’t...

Any chance you have NSNs? I hadn’t thought of this, either.

RWH- that was my mentality as well. If the other components function, it’s just down to the mechanical switch to complete the circuit at the appropriate temperature. That said, I will still need to get the gauge sorted before I’ll trust driving this around. Otherwise it’ll be pinned at full...

Update for today - Seeing 160 on the gauge, I'm seeing 1400-1500 Ohms at the sensor. Simultaneously I’m seeing the temp on the thermostat housing of 130 degrees and the temp gauge sensor of 130 as well. The block itself is reading about 160, FWIW. Based on that, I’m thinking that, while the...

Thank you all for the assistance here. It is appreciated. The fan is not coming on from my driving, but I’m also not seeing thermostat housing temps above 190 degrees. This truck has seen very light duty thus far- driving to Home Depot, taking the kids to the pool and on hikes, etc.- the...

Do you think I’m safe to let it run until the thermostat housing is at 220 degrees or so? I’m guessing that it’ll read somewhat lower than the actual coolant, but don’t want to risk friction welding my pistons to the block just to confirm that the fan does actually engage properly.