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Yes, super glue. If the ends are cut nice and flat to each other, 1 drop of super glue will do it.

Any grommet of roughly the same size but a little larger will work. Take a razor and slice one side of the grommet then wrap it in the hole until it over laps, mark it and cut to size. When installing it put the cut on the bottom of the hole. Most hardware stores will have them.

Initially I thought the same thing, then I went and actually learned about the product and checked them out more closely. It's not angle iron afaik. Angle iron is actually pretty flimsy and easily bent. As I understand it the material used it much stronger. Is there are reason your first...

Consider a preemptive strike, contact the HOA and file a complaint that someone is leaving litter and threatening notes on your legal, registered vehicle.

Interestingly the same part number for that spring is listed here https://www.hummerpartsguy.com/SPRING-FRONT-1728LB-SNOW-PLOW_p_123.html for a Snow Plow.

From what I found, link in my post above, no not all 2500 and 3500 wheels will work for several different reasons. Any stock size wheel typically isn't wide enough for suggested rim width for mounting tires that fit the HMMWV's. That is typically 37x12.50 tires. Also the Wheel offset and back...

Those in a 17" are too narrow for any available 37"+ tires that I can find. There are other stock Dodge wheels in 18x8 and 20x8 that can take available 37"+ tires. I've posted a lot of Tire and Wheel info here...

I have been casually researching wheels and tires for a while. A recent health issue has me laid up in front of my computer. I'm not an expert on wheels and fitment but I did accumulate a fair amount of information on the topic. My criteria was pretty simple. 1. Maintain stock profile as much...

What is the rim width? I have been doing a lot of wheel research and later today I am posting in my build thread about wheels, offsets etc. I found some stock Dodge steel wheels as well. Do you know what year those are from? Thanks

The picture says "GovPlanet" on it. I'm guessing it is a picture he found online to represent what he was talking about and not an actual picture of his leak.

Well actually mine is a permanent hard top with a permanent rear wall. There aren't ever going to be back seats. The access will be for storage under the bed floor and access to the front of the bed area.

The issues I have been finding with wheels is the stock wheel offset is high. I have to do some measuring myself but it looks like +50mm (about 2"). With the 8.5" wide wheel that is about 6.25" back spacing. The Black Rhino wheels are +6mm (about .25"). With a 9.5" wide wheel that's about 5"...

I've been looking for options as well. Local tire place quoted me 5 (I have a spare) 17x9.5 steel wheels with Falken 37x12.5x17 tires for $2500. I don't like the look of the fancy style wheels myself, these are plain black wheels. The more I look, I think I would prefer the BFGoodrich...

It's a double edge sword, I hate they aren't selling them and recovering that money. Also, if they sell 100,000 of them, the states will have to listen to the people that want to register them. On the other hand, everyone they crush increases the value of mine although that isn't that...

One of the upcoming projects is renewing the fuel system. My gauge doesn't read correctly (common problem). The tank is stained and discolored badly, not a function issue. Some of the lines are marginal, etc. I don't like the idea of cutting into the bed to change the sending unit, not going...

I really like this option. I recently purchased a new fuel sender since my gauge doesn't work. At the same time I planned on replacing the fuel tank. The noticeable difference is the new style has a baffle around the sender. I think this one would be more likely to vary the gauge reading...

Ok, then move the negative cable from the slave connector from the shunt block to the battery post (neg) and then install the switch in the negative battery cable. The end result would still be the same, the slave would be powered at all times and would not go through the battery switch.

Take the positive lead from the slave connector and connect it to the positive terminal on the battery (+24v). Then the slave connector would not be effected by the battery switch. This means the switch would not be subjected to the load of the slave device.

Today I added a Solargizer. I mounted it on top of the air intake. I like that it didn't require putting holes in the hood and routing the wire was shorter and cleaner. I mounted the control in the battery compartment. I used rivets, once painted they will blend in with the 300,000 other...

They are from the Stealth HMMWV, very rare.