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Check the idler arm first, but check all the steering points. Might help to have the front end off the ground so you can observe the wiggling. On the older models the idler arm is the weak point, though it was corrected on A2's. Not good to have wonky steering. BDGR

We plan to attend. BDGR

Congrats on getting it running. Finish the preventative maintenance and put her through the paces. BDGR

I'd be tickled to have those style seats. We use standard issue bleacher pads and weak springs for driver. I hope to have money for a seats upgrade mid-year. BDGR

I used the auto parts store's Stant catalog and bought the t-stat for a Chevy Suburban diesel of the same year, 215F. Works fine for me. Can't recall if I was able to use the gasket if came with or form-a-gasket #2, been a few years. No issues though. BDGR

I apologize if I missed it mentioned, but I don't see M998 anywhere. Is there a separate thread/listing perhaps? Thanks, BDGR

Like AjaxMD I live near Wash DC and see plenty of trust fund babies and misplaced wannabe's in their blinged-out 4-door Jeeps and other assorted near-Jeep vehicles looking very smug. Few wave, though it seems like the amount of appreciation for my crusty M998 increases during Summer months when...

I don't have a multifuel, nor a heaping helping of experience with diesels, but if it's that new and experiencing blow-by (and not the compressor as was ably pointed out) you might do a compression test. I do have other engine experience, and have seen improperly broken in rebuilds varnish the...

Lock Tite?

Yep, Loudspeakers for radios. If you've no plans for them, or the mounting tray, or the cables or antenna bases/mounts, folks here will gladly take them off your hands (myself included). BDGR

+1 for locking the rotors (carefully). I've used everything from a wrench to a Craftsman screwdriver. Just find something that will bind it and proceed carefully. Some penetrating spray won't hurt, but be sure to clean it off the rotors after and try not to get it on the pads. You'll get 'em...

As I recall, the lower lamps are for blackout and backup lights. They should NOT be painted over, though you will likely never use blackout lights. BDGR

The L versus H or HL is part of the transfer case. Could be several things, but the easiest (and most hoped for) is that the linkage is misaligned. Get under there and inspect the t-case linkage and get some pictures of the shifter as well. Since it has a 700R it has had shift linkage...

I replaced my pads without removing the half shaft, but it was TEDIOUS and a lot of hassle. Removing the half shaft just means you can drop the rotor out of the way and reach things a little easier. It is possible, and since we're hobbyists and our time is worthless, it's not essential to rip...

Nice chain. There is one near my house in Woodbridge. Haven't been in a while. Should go again, in the HMMWV of course. BDGR

Check it by smell, it' could simply be off-road diesel fuel which is dyed red. Congratulations! BDGR

Yup that's the best way. Hope it finished up well then? BDGR

HMMWVs are not "secure" vehicles with respect to parking and storage unless you add something inside that locks and is well-mounted. Anything you leave laying inside the vehicle is fair game to someone "going shopping". Sort of like owning a convertible car, where anyone with a box cutter has...

Any part numbers or other details to share? BDGR

+1 And keep an eye on TSC sales, they sometimes have Valvoline 15W-40 at blowout prices. It's my #2 after Rotella. I have found good prices on Rotella at Advance Auto sales and WalMart.com, periodically. I also add a few lubricating additives, but don't want to derail your thread mentioning...