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I am glad that you went through this...but I'm still not sure why this happened to your set. I do agree that the transformer that was normally supplied with 208 was changed to 120v with my wire movements, but I thoroughly tested the set that I converted in the video...and output was NOT reduced...

Well...I can't locate an EXACT replacement...you might call Afcon, give them the part number, and ask if they can help you: 72-2609 http://www.afconproducts.com/ But, I'm betting a civvy replacement is possible.

:) Beat you to it. I realized that and edited my post mere seconds before you replied! Trying to locate a suitable replacement, but I do have some data on that transformer: AARG Reliability Indicator Not established ABKQ Center to Center Distance Between Mounting Facilities Parallel to...

Well, it certainly sounds like you know your electronics. I am a little hobbled here, as I currently have no -004's or -005's to actually look at. Keep in mind that L2-L3 is designed to have different voltage outputs (via the voltage reconnection board) from the factory. When in 120/208...

In the diagram, which transformer was it that burned up?

Nice job! That PLC looks to be significantly more robust that the one that I used in my trailer. Looking forward to future updates!

I took a quick look at the schematic and can't figure out why that change would have caused the excessive current flow that damaged your transformer. I will need to spend a few minutes thinking things over! I know for sure that quite a number of people have completed the conversion exactly as...

I can probably find out; but I'm away from my shop right now...I'll try to get some info for you this weekend.

I may have an extra one on my shelf; I will check this weekend. But...you would probably be better off just replacing the transformer...should be reasonably easy to find a suitable replacement for under $20. I haven't done exhaustive testing on the single phase mod, but I have done extensive...

The back of the oil pressure gauge is a -4AN fitting, IIRC. You can buy any adapter you need from Summit Racing...

Yes, I ran the PLC off of the MEP's 24v batteries. This worked fine as long as the batteries were fully charged, but if they were depleted at all, then the relays on the PLC would drop in and out during cranking. To avoid this, I used a time delay relay for the cranking output. This would...

Since the "feeler gauge method" relies on the contact still being straight, I have found that it doesn't always work. If the contact has developed a "bow" in it, the numbers in the TM won't work. I usually start the generator, use a digital frequency meter to adjust the engine speed down to...

The device that SHOULD cut out the starter is a under small stamped metal cover, right next to the oil filter. The injection pump linkage is directly above it. It is adjustable; the TM procedure calls for a specific thickness using a feeler gauge but I have found that, if the metal contact has...

That's strange...in post #5, L3 was lower than L1. Now, L3 is higher than L1. What is different? Do you have your load bank hooked up the same? All of your voltage readings are taken with your digital voltmeter, correct? Do you see the fluctuations in voltage and frequency on your digital...

It isn't the toggle switch itself that you need to check; it is the main breaker assembly. The cables to L1-L3 pass through it; it is on the left side of the generator, near the voltage reconnection board.

I have seen main breakers with high resistance connections in them; you might fully load the generator and take voltages on both the input and output side of the breaker to see if it is the culprit. A loose or high resistance connection somewhere is dropping 10 volts (this is causing the...

I have found defective meters FREQUENTLY. One of the first things I do when I am working on a "new to me" set is to verify voltage, frequency, and ammeter readings. It saves a lot of time troubleshooting. This may explain why the heaters are not providing the expected load. As for the...

Ahh yes...we are getting into the complex world of mathematically computing 3 phase loads! The reason you can't just measure the real load on a single phase and get an accurate current flow is that the leg is also doing some work on another phase (for example, you can't just calculate current...

The movable part of the voltage reconnection board should have an arrow on it. That arrow should line up with one of two voltage readings on the fixed part of the board. As triplejim stated, your set is likely configured for 240/416 right now. To change voltage, you just remove the nuts on...

Yep...it is simply a loose connection. There is no short...the battery terminals just need to be cleaned. Best thing to do is to remove the cable completely, and use a terminal brush to clean both the battery post and the inside of the connector. It is common for a thin layer of corrosion to...