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I have not torqued anything yet, but plan to do so tomorrow. Maybe I'll back down a bit from the recommended torque, but these threads do not feel lubricated. I know technically they are a little bit, but they sure don't feel like it. Maybe it's just the nuts and studs on the 24 bolt...

Crap, a little late for that... Can you reference the problem? I actually researched it before doing it and found folks supporting it, particularly when using lock nuts like the nuts on the hmmwv wheels. For what it's worth, I didn't do the studs that attach the wheels, just the studs that...

Nothing is better than new shoe day. I got my 4 new tires + spare all mounted today with the runflats. Even after re-mounting the 1 wobbly tire on a different rim, it still has some side to side runout, so it's the tire and not the rim or mounting. I'll probably run all of them down to...

Out of all the stuff you could break, at least that's a realatively easy and cheap fix. Glass half full and all that....

At $425 + shipping, I thought the Seco kit was drastically overpriced until I started piecing legit parts together from separate sources. Especially when you have to pay for individual shipping from each source. One of the L/R brackets (the ones that are different side to side) I could only...

I'm not saying your top was OEM, but I understand that some of the OEM stuff isn't great. From what I've read, the Brenton tops were OEM, but it seems there are many reported issues with them. I ended up with an NOS (2009) GMA top kit and it was a single piece c-pillar also, so I'm not sure...

I just bought the full bracket kit from seco today, do you know of an issue with it? I know they sell some junk, but it’s listed as NOS and I bought a rear seat belt and insulation kit from them and it was good.

It's one of those new-fangled roller pistons... Likely a cam failure allowed the lifter to drop into the crankcase and then kick up into the bore. However it ended up there, I'd bet the rest of that engine had some serious structural damage.

Will do, but highway speeds will be a bit in the future. My SF97 has been brewing for about 1 month, so I'm hoping I'll have it titled and on the road some time in April, but at the mercy of the government timeline. I have a short stretch of private road (behind the neighborhood gate) and a...

I looked at the parts diagram and here are the hardware sizes listed - Hex bolts- 8 - 1/2" x 4.25" 12 - 1/2" x 3" 2 - 1/2" x 3.75" 4 - 1/2" x 3.25" 52 1/2" flat washers 26 lock nuts (I'll probably use regular hex nuts with lock washers, hopefully there is enought extra length on all bolts to...

Aren't the inners only needed for towing significant weight? I thought I read somewhere that you need either the inner braces or the reinforcment place to tow any weight (but not both).

For anyone looking to pull together all the required brackets together - I believe this is the parts list below. This is for the basic A2 setup (not reinforced for towing and does not include the outer "airlift" shackles). 2 rear shackles (This is just for an A2 version of the bumper)...

Also, just to confirm - I believe the rear shackles ( 12447089-2 ) for the airlift bumper are not the same as the shackles on the rear of my m1123 ( 12447089-1) , so I assume I need those, right? It looks like the 12447089-2 has a longer stud.

Thanks. Yes, I have the A2 version coming with the inner holes for the shackles. I found this article from gear report that does a nice job highlighting the parts needed and also a hardware list. Saves a little TM search time...

I've got an NOS bumper on the way, it seems they are widely available for pretty cheap. I'm struggling to find the mounting brackets for a reasonable price. I'm just looking for the basic brackets, not the reinforcement stuff for towing. Seco has a kit for $425 ($545 with the hardware) which...

I'm pretty sure you won't be able to salvage that piston... I have not seen too many pics of hydrolock damage, but the rods will typically bend pretty bad before a piston would come apart like that. That rod actually looks straight to me, but it's hard to tell for sure in the pic. Something...

Agreed, but I think this might make the case to have the red dot opposite the valve stem rather than aligned. From what I understand, the red dot is the area of maxium radial force, so putting it with a heavy valve stem (that further increases the radial force at that point) would be the worst...

Is "low" the spot that runs nearest the center of the wheel (up and down)? I assume we're not talking side to side runout, but not sure.

If mounting on aluminum rims (which theoretically should have no significant variation), you line the red dot up with valve stem. For stamped steel wheels, there should be a mark indicating the low spot, but I'm guessing these wheels aren't "normal" steel wheels. At least that's what I've...

I've got a white and red dot on my tires, no yellow. Even if the white is same as yellow, I've read that yellow should be ignored if there is a red dot anyway, so I guess I'm going with red. The red dot should be aligned with the "lowest" point on the wheel and there is supposed to be a dimple...