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One of mine did that when I first got it. I could leave the key on with no wait light, open the hood and jiggle the wires at the connector for the glow plug temp sender on the drivers side head rear inside the valley. I would jiggle until I heard the relay click and then get back in to start...
I agree it is not a fun experience. But, if he was wanting to do it once, at a low speed and with safe thoughts in his head. Then it might be cheaper than buying a trailer.
Tax, title and license. 6.25% of what they think it is worth as sales tax then a few more things. You should be done for an amount in the low hundreds.
You want to trailer it to the trail head or just to get it initially? You could always flat tow it at a slower speed. I brought one of mine home with my M715. I had a pair of M715 engines in the back of the M715 for ballast and 26 mph was as fast as I could go and still have control. But, a...
Yes, very pricey:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/acdelco/lighting---electrical/connectors-sockets/cold-advance-solenoid-connector/d905667a342b/acdelco-switch-assembly/acd0/10154649
Contractor trash bags from Walmart are pretty good at keeping the cold wind from coming in through the door handle in the winter has been my experience. Held on with duct tape of course.
Look at the drivers side head right behind the alternator and above the exhaust. You will see the temperature idiot light sensor. Since the heads for both sides are the same casting. The same hole for the sensor on the drivers side is the hole in the head at the rear of the passenger side for...
Yes, the green wire does both the fast idle solenoid and the cold advance in side the injection pump. Except for about 6 days a year here in Texas you don’t need it.
It is easier for people to help you if you keep your problems to just one thread. I just answered your other thread to find the same question and pictures here.
If the fast idle solenoid is working. Then it doesn’t need replacement. The sensor on the outside rear of the passenger head is either faulty or the wire leads have been mashed together causing the solenoid to not turn off.
The sensor is supposed to put power to the solenoid any time the...
Is one of those forms a SF-97? That is the only form that I am aware of the state of Texas will take and turn into a title. The SF-97 has to be in your name though.
If you have a title then it should be no problem to use the Former Military Vehicle registration method at the local tax office. Search TXDMV for the application form. The tax office probably won't know how to process it. You can help them by letting them know FMV is a drop down in the...
This type of discussion gets kind of murky real fast sometimes. I was hesitant to even reply.
Military vehicles don't have a standard 17 digit VIN. They have a serial number. You wrote that your serial number on the SF-97 is all 0's. Correct?
You also don't know the year of your trailer...
What does the tachometer read with everything off? I have a surplus electric tach here on my desk that reads 300 rpm not hooked to anything. My guess is that is the reason it was surplused. Had the same thing happen with a mechanical drive airplane tach years ago as well.
The water heated heater for the Multifuel M35A2 will work just fine on the Gasser. The heater core and fan sit on a pedestal on the drivers side of the engine under the hood. With ducting going through the firewall to an on/off air flow flapper and a diverter to floor or defrost.
The oil light is tested by grounding it with the ignition on. If it lights then the wiring is good. So, yours is coming on when the ignition is off and the lead is supposed to be connected to the oil psi sender. It is grounding somewhere.
At the same time, the oil light circuit is getting...
Timing and pre combustion chamber throat size.
The more advanced the timing is the louder the tin can full of rocks sound. Look at the lines scratched into the IP and timing cover at the front top of the engine. Are they aligned or is the IP a good bit toward the drivers side of the timing...
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