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This is a good example of the mixed data one finds when trying to figure out the 6.? dynamic timing numbers: http://www.conestogadiesel.com/support/timinginjectionpumps.html They build and tune engines, yet admit they don't know how they are getting the numbers they are. Actually, the way...

That cab is heavy. Very heavy. Is your steering box and steering shaft installed still? If it is, that will add another level of difficulty to your task. I did my cab removal and install with an engine hoist and ratchet straps by myself. I think you need to rent or buy at least an engine...

It is for sure a rabbit hole to go down. I found 2 data points to go with. I am not sure I trust either though. This one: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/6-2l-ignition-timing-my-results.112778/ Is a very old thread on CK5 by a guy that at the time of the thread had a 6.2 with a Banks set up...

Most hardware and home improvement stores also sell rubber "cork". That is what I used on my M1009s. Good suggestion.

Thanks for making it more simple Keith. I did find a GM publication with a static timing spec. I am looking for dynamic timing though. I have looked through the CUCV and HMMWV -30 TM’s and have not been able to find any dynamic timing numbers. I did find several people referring to the “military...

Cool. I hadn’t seen a successful install yet.

That is a good point. Not only could the balancer be off a bit. But the pointer itself is adjustable. There are a lot of variables for someone who reloads and messes with BMW’s. Variables are very annoying. But, it I can get repeatable reading for my engine to base changes off of. I will be happy.

Another concern inside the frame rail is heat transfer to the cab floor. The most common way I have seen is people make a flattened down pipe and do at least 1 inch cab lift. Otherwise, outside the frame is your only real option.

The gist of the long thread yesterday is that I don’t know exactly what my timing is because I don’t know the timing probe offset. Yet, I now have an accurate timing reading that is repeatable and I advanced the timing a bit. I wrote that and went for a 231 mile drive into the hill country for...

Todays Topic is injection pump timing. I have owned a 6.2 or 6.5 for almost 11 years now. I have replaced at least 6 injection pumps on varies engines in the same time span. I have also been looking for an accurate way to set the IP timing after pump replacement or to just baseline a running...

That is a tough one. Figure $3k for a new system. Figure $500 - $800 plus exhaust for a GM turbo system. Somewhere in between is your price. I haven’t looked lately, but $1200 seemed to be the eBay price a few years ago. That was without exhaust though. But exhaust will make shipping very...

You are in experimental land with this one. Keep in mind that no power is actually pulled from the front battery. The 12 volts positive for most of the truck systems is actually pulled from the negative side of the rear battery. Kind of confusing to think about and even tougher to...

There is a diamond shaped black plastic 2 post wiring connector above the driver side cylinder head on the firewall. Give the wires going to it a tug and see what happens. Same with the Buss bar connectors on the passenger side firewall. 1 loose or corroded connection can cause this problem...

Where is the high beam indicator? I will look at my 1952 REO and see if it has the larger light pods or not. I don't think it did.

The gauges are of a different manufacturer than the later multi fuel trucks too. I think Stewart Warner. Here is the only picture I have of mine here at work. 1953 REO.

Was the heater on high, lights on and wipers flapping? Even then it shouldn't drain the battery that fast. Check your batteries and have them load tested. Then go from there. You might have a bad alternator, but something else is going on as well.

LMC does have a listing for the tail gate seal under Blazer if you look at the page titled for removable top models. #11 on that page. However, the best way to get the right part is to look in the TM ending with -20P or -34P. That gives you the exact GM part number for what you want. Then...

Exactly, that is why I tried to nicely suggest a new drop in drive train might be a more cost effective solution.

12.6 volts is what the battery should be at with the truck off. If you don't have that, you need to charge the battery before you do anything else. You should also load test the battery. How long are you cranking the engine to get it to start? Something is pulling voltage from your battery...

That looks like fun. You might get a better deal and better results from buying a complete center mount turbo engine/transmission assembly. There always seems to be a unit for sale either on this site or other online auction sites. Getting a complete engine assembly that is known to be good...