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Where did you get the new proportioning valve on the front cross member? I ask because the last I looked, they were no longer available new. That part though should not affect your dragging brakes though. Is the truck pulling to one side constantly? That would be a clue as to which side is...

That is not the correct alternator for a M35A1. They were 28 volt externally regulated (Bread loaf 25 amp) units if my memory of the TM's is correct. Not trying to pick on you since you are relaying a request. But, more information is needed or wider range pictures.

The new alternator from NAPA. Is it an isolated ground unit? The theory is the drivers side doesn't have to be, but if the passenger side isn't, that could also be a short.

Are you talking about the triangle shaped mount behind one of the front doors that can double as a Yeti cup holder or the little clip at the front or rear that holds the end of the antenna?

Sorry to come back with more questions. However, have you downloaded or at least looked at the manuals available for the truck? At the very top of the page in the main title banner is a link marked TM. There are several for the CUCV trucks. The one ending in -10 is like an owners manual on...

To get the drivers door glass out you have to remove the window crank handle, the screws, the arm rest pad and the vent window frame. Did you do all of that already?

You are the test engineer on this project since we don't know how the 12 volt conversion was done. Sorry.

If nothing else is on, yes 15 minutes should have the batteries topped up. Go ahead and do the first thing the TM says to do. Have both batteries load tested and fully charged. Everything depends on that at the beginning.

Do you have the glow plug resistor bypassed on the firewall? If so, the front battery is doing all the glowing and will take longer to get back up to full voltage.

The military supposedly all got the J code engines with the higher rating. Some of the civilian trucks got the lower rather EGR engine. Open intake J code. EGR in the middle under the air filter lower power.

In

The fan clutch will not fully "lock up" no matter what temperature it is. I think the stock CUCV fan will get up to 70% engagement for up to 6 minutes. That is off the top of my head and may not be exact. My point is there will always be some slippage on the fan clutch.

My spare doesn't wobble at all. I have the red handled over center locking lever at the end of the arm and a spring loaded locking pin at the bearing. Is that what you were asking?

I couldn't remember if it was P40 or P400 so I wrote it the way I did. I have an optimizer 6500 with the HMMWV oil pan in my 1987 Suburban. Plenty of clearance all around. The 1 piece rear main seal on those engines means if you swap the oil pan, it has to be from a 6.5 with the 1 piece rear...

The HMMWV oil pan will clear the stock Chevy cross member on a CUCV. The engine above the Optimizer 6500 is the one with the girdle and oil pan that won't clear the stock CUCV crossmember.

I’m sure a LED bulb has been put into H4 housings. However, the focal point of the vastly different lights means your chances of getting focused on the road light are pretty low. That is why you see LED housings listed separate from the halogen housings.

Welcome to the fun. I have camped many nights next to that truck.

I have often thought the CUCV trucks were one of the main reason LED bulbs for tail lights were developed. Starting with the black out lights and then the full light buckets on MV’s and the trailers.

No, the trailer wiring is all 12 volt.

Just use the positive of the front battery to run the LMC relay kit. I have to plug the Trucklite LED headlights. I put them on the Cowdog and had buyers remorse as soon as I hit the button to buy them. Until I got them on the truck. I want them on the entire fleet now. That are that good.