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That is a return line for the IP.

No problem my friend. It was just a trivial question. I can go to the TM’s to check it out. Thanks!

That’s so much better than I could do. I think that I need to just read these threads and not be so excited about contributing information sometimes 🤩 Do you know if the EA receives a pulse width modulation signal to adjust engine speed? (PWM)

Ok, I’m sadly mistaken with what I wrote above. I was thinking about a completely different engine. Absolutely this engine has return fuel from each of the injection nozzles as well as from the top of the high pressure injection pump. So yes, repair any and all leaks in the high pressure lines...

Assuming that you have clean engine oil in this thing, what's your oil pressure when it's running?

Also, someone else may have loosened the fittings on top of one or more of the injector nozzles in an effort to bleed the fuel system while cranking. If one of them is loose, you will have an engine miss with not very much fuel leakage at that point. I would put a wrench on the fittings on all...

That fitting is definitely a problem. It looks obviously cross-threaded. I can't quite tell where it's located, but definitely get it repaired/replaced. The injector nozzles and the lines to them are strictly high pressure only from the injection pump. There's no return fuel from them. All...

Good job so far! Do you have access to an infrared heat gun? If so, check the temperature with the engine running at each of the exhaust manifold outlets for the individual cylinders. It will tell you if you have a dead hole. Or, the old school method of touch can also tell you if one cylinder...

I can't really tell much from watching/listening to your short video. Do you know what the engine oil pressure was? An injection nozzle with a poor spray pattern can also cause a "fuel knock" on these diesel engines. With it running, can you tell where the knocking sound is coming from?

I apologize for jumping in so heavily here on your thread. By all means, follow the TM for cranking but no start. I’m simply sharing Some of my own experiences here too. As Guy pointed out earlier, low DC voltage can cause problems. It would be good to know what your cranking vdc actually is...

Yes, from the lift pump it goes through the fuel filters and then to the center of the injection Pump. The fuel actuator does two things. It allows the fuel to return to the tank, and in this case it also regulates engine speed based on the signal from the MPU. (Magnetic pick-up unit)

Oh, BTW. The supply line to the injection pump is in the middle of the distribution block on the front. The return line is the one on the top of the injection pump. When you’re hand priming your fuel system you should get fuel out of the return line on the top (cracked open) with S1 in the run...

The main fuel suction line is the flexible line on the front of the lift pump. In your photos it’s the one that drops down to the tank in front of the starter. Again, make sure you have sufficient fuel in your main tank. I would start with 3 or more gallons. Hand pump that lever on the right...

One more thing about the mechanical fuel lift pump on the side of this John Deere engine. There is a manual lever on the right side of this pump that you can use to prime the fuel system by hand. But in my experience with these pumps and the manual prime levers is that they won't work if the...

Guy is absolutely correct. Make sure that you have good batteries that are fully charged. There's a mechanical fuel lift pump on these 15kw units. The only time that its pumping fuel is when the engine is cranking over. Excessive engine cranking of any diesel engine will bring batteries down...

You simply need to pull up on that sleeve (the cap is attached to it with a chain) and when it gets to the top where it won't pull out anymore, rotate the assembly to line up the tabs on the bottom of the sleeve with the notches in the fuel fill neck and it will simply pull all the way out where...

I've had to replace FL1 on several different units. It's item #10 in Kurts drawings above. I'm not really sure what fails in these sending units. They utilize a magnetic type of float rather than a resistor type like in FL2. Maybe fuel gets inside of the tube and messes with the electronics...

I’m wrong again! When a good battery becomes discharged, the internal resistance goes down, not up. Sorry :sneaky:

One thing I should add here. If someone uses larger batteries than what was specified for any machine or vehicle, you do run the risk of having too much load on the alternator/charging circuit. If, say those oversized batteries become discharged for some reason and you attempt to charge them...

I know that there may be some "purists" here that won't want to hear this. Using a handheld disk grinder, I've cut the unused mounting ears off of the Lister Petter LMN4 engine on my 803A. It has opened up the possibility of using "whatever you got" for batteries. And, as others have said here...