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Re-torque. You have nothing to lose. It might still eventually fail but you might buy time. I bet you will be surprised about what you find when you put the torque wrench to the head stud nuts. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

This handy little calculator may be helpful: https://www.norbar.com/Home/Torque-Wrench-Extension-Calculator

Would you mind posting the updated part numbers and prices?

Ah, 10-4 HN6, you are concerned about steer axle vs. rear axle offset. I misread that as forrward rear to rear rear axle differences. The front axle should have no side-to-side movement. Need to check U bolts, spring perches etc. I suggest lining the truck up straight on asphalt or...

I did that and had a clean block for about three days. The new headgastkets on new heads and a straight deck ooze. The valve cover gaskets are mostly, but not totally, oil tight (even with re-seating and vaseline). I have a block with a few streaks, but at least not a dripping wet block!

Here is a post on the ARP head studs and part numbers if you wish to upgrade: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/head-stud-issues.148993/

My Deuce, when turning, shifts the axles perhaps 1 inch or less. It is just visible as some tread offset between the two neighbouring tires. Definitely not 8 inches! The TM speaks of "rigid" axle mounting but there better be some flexibility or stuff breaks. The spring pockets themselves provide...

Pitpawten, have you considered a modern gear reduction starter? Less$$, faster crank and much smaller!

Basically, yes. Singled out, you run the rims dish out on flipped hubs. Search for flipped hubs and postings by Gringeltaube on why that is advisable. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

I have a standard 150 psi valve on the shelf. I have not plumbed it in, yet. Golly, I do not want to run out of Spring projects!! Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

None on my truck. In case of governor or unloader failure it would continue to build pressure until the weakest point in the air system blew. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Reminds me to tee in the 150psi safety blowoff valve. The Deuce compressor doesn't have one. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Nchittendon, she may just have a frozen governor from a bit of humidity in the line. Running the engine until the compartment warms up would do the trick. You did not mention any weird noises, so the compressor is most likely just running unloaded. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

I bet you are glad you checked that rear main!! Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

I am using the Keeper KWA 14650 snatch block. It has a 6in pulley diameter. Suitable for up to 3/4 in wire rope. 6t WLL and rated for 36,000lbs. Similar models available from Smittybuilt and MileMarker. Nice is that it weighs 9 lbs. I carry a military snatch block as well which is a great...

With a stock LDT you just need "a turbo" that can boost a little, as was mentioned above. Paining over which turbo to use and whether one is so much better than the other is almost pointless because while the turbo contributes something, it is not a whole lot. With a stock LDT, all you need is...

I have been there. I replaced a complete clutch setup that had about half its life left because I had the transmission out. I did that for the reasons mentioned above - I do not want to have to drop the tranny again for no other reason than doing a clutch. Flywheel resurfaced, new rear main...

Schau Dir doch mal diese Bilder an: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/fuel-pump-not-working-and-how-i-troubleshot-it.29180/ These pictures might help in identifying the parts.

Humans can make mistakes...and it is good when they own up to them. I bet that new motor will be sealed tightly!

I cleaned the rubber tank strap liners -SOS pad worked well and did not appear to damage the rubber. Needs patience and elbow grease, though, which allows one to come up with plenty of words to describe the person that painted the rubber in the first place.