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I'm not a huge fan of Dodge but the rust must just be a Northern thing. They are all over down here. I mean they are usually broke down with transmission issues but they are all over.

Looks good, you can't really tell it's not a bed he purchased complete from somewhere.

Freshly painted rear driveshaft with new Moog U-Joints.

Installed an actual volt gauge today. It's an eBay special from India but it seems to work just fine. This is with the engine off.

That's correct you have 12v constant and switched ground. When the ground is switched on it completes the circuit energizing a small coil magnet which pulls a contact down to close the relay and send power out to the horn.

Got the horn figured out. Turned out to be corroded connections. When I cut the capacitor out in the front my wire wasn't long enough to reach the horn so I splice a piece in between the original terminals. I used a fingernail file to clean up the connections but apparently it wasn't enough. I...

Yes I was chewing up the gear due to busted up teeth on the flexplate

15544950 is the correct starter bolts. I was chewing up starters until I replaced my Flexplate so I've ordered several sets of them.

I didn't think about trying that. I just figured the relay was bad since that seems like where the power is stopping even though I find that odd since the relay is clicking.

I don't have a lot to add on this subject but I will say there is a 4 or 5 inch piece of rubber fuel line about mid way down the frame at least there is on mine. It connects two sections of fuel line. It could just be on mine, not really sure if it's on all of them. On mine it's between the...

Spent the day trying to get the horn working. The old horn did not work so I ordered a new horn and contact kit from LMC. Hooked up the new horn and installed the contact kit and click no blow. Tested the horn with a jumper it works. Cut out the capacitor at the horn and the diode at the relay...

Thanks the ones for our trucks are 3.1116G though.

Appreciate it. I'll go with the Energy Suspension inserts.

@cucvrus What would you suggest for engine mounts? I've heard the Energy Suspension ones transfer more vibration than rubber ones do. I'm pretty sure you have used both so what do you think?

I got you. I misunderstood, I am replacing them all before the fuel tank, transmission, and transfer case go back in. The fuel tank being out makes getting to the rears easier. I'll have to start watching Little Reds thread a little closer glad you are finally going to get it completed.

I know me to well. If the body comes off the frame entirely this will become a full blown restoration real quick instead of just a refresh and preservation. I'm trying to not let that happen because I would like to be driving it again sooner rather than later.

If your trying to get rust off of small parts and you have a couple days, a degreasing then a two day soak in a mixture of cleaning vinegar and salt will get you back to nearly clean metal. One cup of salt to a half gallon of cleaning vinegar. Just don't use LA Totally Awesome cleaning vinegar...

I'm partial to square body's and GMT400 I love my M1009 but I've got a 93 1500 extended cab step side two wheel drive that I think is very good looking as well.

Quick search on the forum and found it. LMC part number 38-8036 for the PCB

Fuel tank parts came in today. I'm honestly thinking about cutting up the anti squeak kit and just putting the material on the high parts of the ridges. The factory one that I scraped and sanded off held a lot of dirt and moisture in the valleys being that it was glued all the way across. Any...