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Are all 3 of the pumps dead, even aux? If so it has to be a power / ground issue, very unlikely all 3 especially aux. died at the same time. Make sure your chassis grounds and the strap across the motor mount are all clean and tight.

Hi Evvy, You're probably going to have a hard time removing the spray paint without destroying the vinyl stickers under it. Rattle can paint comes off pretty easily with lacquer thinner or acetone as mentioned above. It will require a fair amount of scrubbing to get it out of the texture of the...

Hey guys, sorry I've been away from the forum for a little bit. New job has me actually working instead of slacking off all day, so less time to catch up on generator stuff. I am still making both oil and fuel filter adapters. Send over a PM and I'll see if I can help you out.

There is a 7 1/2 amp DC push button breaker next to the control panel. Have you checked to make sure it's pushed in? Its pouring outside otherwise I would go look, but if I recall its below the fault indicator panel.

Seems we all have different ways of conquering the problem. Whatever work to stop the leak... go with it!. Seems a spin-on final filter would have eliminated a lot of grief!.

Have you tried swapping one of the exciters back into the previously "Good" generator to verify that both exciters are in fact bad? Perhaps something else is going on with the one exciters into and the exciters are not really the problem?

Correct. Oil pressure and temp are in series and hold the Fuel solenoid open when both are closed. If either switch opens, the solenoid releases and shuts down the Injection pump. The temp switch is notorious for failing at any moment.

Talk about no luck but bad luck! Looks like you have a big open field and parked the new gen right next to the only tree that came down!

Unfortunately those canisters are prone to leaks no matter what you do. 99% of the time it's a matter of getting the o-ring ( actually it a square cut ring ) into the groove without it twisting or otherwise getting out of position. Take the bowl off again and make sure the seal is in the groove...

Heck, for that kind of money I have a good Ambac M50 pump for sale that comes with a spare low ( 250) hour, fully tested and serviced 002A attached to it ! Not too long ago I was able to buy M50 rebuildable cores for $50-75. Now it's cheaper to buy a whole machine just to rob the pump off it.

At this point you might want to consider just pulling the pump off and taking it apart to be sure it's good. The problem with the PSU pump is that it's " shear pin" design is somewhat flawed such that the plunger itself will often snap in half at it's thinnest point rather than the head breaking...

To confirm above regarding tank removal, you can not remove the tank without unbolting the whole radiator housing. There isn't enough room to tilt it out with the radiator support in place because of the dropped sump area. Or at least I've never gotten on to come out!

Well, if it was working at one point, seems as though both VR's probably did have the same issue.

At TDC the valve can barely move at all, so it shouldn't be a problem getting the keepers out. If he has a problem you can always get in there with something to hold the valve up, or even stick some string or thin rope into the cylinder, then rotate the crank by hand to push the rope up and...

Interesting! Puffing / popping in the intake definitely sounds like a leaking intake valve. If it's wet stacked I have seen many sets where a valve gets hung open just a bit due to carbon buildup on the valve/seat. I have fixed a lot of them by removing the valve spring, pressurizing the cyl...

Before you go ahead and replace the DC VR with a new one, assuming this set never worked correctly for you, Perhaps you should make 100% sure the wires from the stator , VR and the filter are all connected to the correct screws on the terminal block. Having 2 VR's in a row that product TOO MUCH...

I believe your voltage regulator is bad. The gage is simply a volt meter, not an ammeter and you are up over 34VDC, which is going to wreck your batteries eventually. You should probably retest the stator first, I think something was wrong with your measurement technique, I don't think you can...

There is a ground strap under the lower left rear corner of the control box. Check that. It's a braid strap connecting the control box to the chassis right under where the connectors exit the rear of the control box. I believe you should also have a connection from the battery - on the starter...

Also, when you checked the voltage, I assume you tested right at the gage? Where did you place your negative lead? If I recall, the Batt gage grounds through the gage panel, you might want to verify you have a good connection between the gage and panel as well as panel to chassis/batt. neg.

Inside the control box find TB-5 screw#8 and test DC voltage there, are you getting 12V or 24V?