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Maybe also take a look at the levers on the IP's. When installed they just barely clear the underside of the block without rubbing. If one of the levers got bent up just a tad, it may be rubbing ever so slightly when things expand. Excessive shims under the pumps further reduces the clearance...

After your last explanation I'd prob You beat me Tom, I was typing the exact same thing! pivot points tend to stiffen up and cause delayed / improper movement of the bendix and drive gear.

This tag L.I.T.D mentioned is normally on the right side of the block forward of the starter and below the alternator. Typically shows the new bore, main and rod bearing sizes.

You have to stand in front of it and accurately get a detailed description of exactly what happens as it begins to die, how quickly it dies, and what is happening after it shuts down. That will get us pointed in the right direction. Does the oil pressure gage stay high even after the machine...

Don't worry.... first time the power goes she'll dig up your corpse and see if she can get you to fire one up to get the lights back on!

2 other things, the seal should have a spring inside the lip on the inside, look at the old one to see if the spring somehow got knocked off. The other thing I have seen is that the crank seals that come with the gasket kits from China are a tad too small on the OD and don't press into the...

Assuming you're talking about the VR Quad fuse mod. that @loosegravel depicted, make sure you have the right fuse in there. needs to be a 3A Slo-blow.... otherwise it won't work right. If the fuse is correct maybe you should ohm out the exciter stator per the TM first? pull off the tin cover on...

Nice find! Just be careful leaving it totally covered for too long. Mice would love to live in such a dry comfortable spot!

I have a feeling it's not a matter of a gummed up pump. These pumps are simple magnetic plungers, not rotary motors, so a stuck pump doesn't pull high current like and electric motor's LRC. You probably have a shorted pump or an issue with the float module. Start by unplugging the pump, then...

Before you go and buy a new fuel solenoid, have you tested the old one and tested the wiring going to the solenoid? I'm having a little difficulty following exactly what is happening. When you turn the switch to crank the engine, does it crank over but will not start until you lift up on the...

I've got one of those same transfer switches hooked up to 3 of my machines. I've got a shed set up with an 002 and 003 and an 831. Only reason I have the synchronizer installed is that I had 2 sitting around and thought it would be a cool ( yet unnecessary ) feature to be able to switch between...

I couldn’t find a compression adapter for this engine, so made 1, basically a 17 mm rod with a 1/8 npt port to connect to a gauge, worked real well. Nice work, your adapter looks exactly like what I made too. Pretty much a "Dummy" injector with a threaded hole for a compression gage. Only...

Correst Guy, P50A2 should be connecting from the +post on the starter solenoid to the +Pin of the slave port. The schematic shows it connecting to P50A10, but in reality, both wires should be on the positive solenoid post.

P55Y2N should be one of the fat white wires. It's the negative that goes over to the slave port on the front of the frame. In my picture above it's the wire with the faded yellow ring terminal attached under the negative battery wire, ten it goes down behind the fuel tank and over to the slave port.

Did your other 2 posts regarding your battery wire issue get deleted? Looks like they are both gone. You can't see the Positive post on the starter in this picture, but maybe it will help show the battery, slave port and control box feed wires. At least you can see the negative side... positive...

Yes, the TM has a typo! It should be about 2.250" I think the TM should have said 2.2" not 2.02"

Not to mention that an 005 and 805 are 30Kw not 15Kw....

You have no idea how many sledge hammers, ground rod pullers, ground rods and aux. fuel hoses I had lying around here. I ended up scrapping a bunch of the rod pullers because it just wasn't worth trying to sell or ship them. Gave away probably 10 sledge hammers. Occasionally I'd find a printed...

Check the CR1 diode in the left rear corner of the control cube. I think it's the 2nd one up from the bottom?? If that diode is blown you will have no power at the panel. I also assume by little circuit breaker you mean the round black DC circuit breaker button to the left of that AC select...

An impact wrench will do the trick. what do you plan to use for a puller? Those blower wheels can be on there extremely tight sometimes. I had made a small block of 1/2" steel with a 1/2" fine thread hole tapped in the center, with 2 thru holes for bolts to go into the 2 threaded holes in the...