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You can scroll through here and see what others have used. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-802a-mep-803a-filters-and-parts.186068/ The thing to watch out for is the gen is 24V but 80% of the gages out there are 12V. Try to find a 24V 80 PSI gage, to make it easier. Beede makes a lot of...

Ha! Fantastic. Glad we were able to figure that one out. Hopefully a new oil gage and you will be 100%

I haven't done an 803 in a while, but the last one I did I used a piece of 1/4" thick rigid plastic for the spacer ring. I made it just slightly bigger than the diameter of the float and rather than a circle it was more of an oblong triangle ( helps get it through the opening of the tank easier...

If wire 137T is on the Batt. stud on the alternator, that could very well be causing all your problems, plus a few others you probably don't even know about yet!

Sure, so Let me tell you how to figure some of this stuff out. Open the oil filter side door, that schematic inside the door can be a life saver, Look for G2 near the upper right. It will show wire 137T going to the excite ( left ) side of the voltage regulator mounted on the back of the...

I wonder if it could be possible that you alternator is shorted internally, sending power backwards through the field excite wire, back to S1 while it's running? You could try removing the Field wire off the alternator and see if anything changes??

Here's my thoughts so far. Somehow you are getting power back feeding through either the oil pressure switch circuit or the engine fault control circuit. Whatever path it is taking its bypassing the E-Stop , Dead crank and S1 switches. This is going to take a little studying of the schematic.

And once you manually press the FSS lever, the engine dies, FSS pops out and does the panel power shut off at that point?

Wow, what a deal! Essentially you paid for the injector and got 30 additional OEM parts for free! Can't beat that price!

Once you turn off S1 / E-Stop and / or dead crank, does EVERYTHIN continue to operate normally? Fuel pump, gages, panel lights etc? Or do you loose all the DC controls as expected, but the solenoid is still pulled in and engine still running? BTW, your picture is correct, left most "F.T...

On your oil pressure issue, it sounds like you are saying the gage is stuck all the way up ALL the time. Running, OFF, S1 at Start / Run and not running. If so, first check the wiring as Guy said. Also confirm +24 on the I terminal and ground is on the G terminal the S terminal is the sense wire...

" I wanted to keep debris out of the radiator, so I made an aluminum cover that opens and closes in unison with the exhaust flap. Orientation is such that it deflects air away from the exhaust, so it no longer blows in my face when I'm at the control panel." Great idea with the automatic...

Good work! all the spray lube and cleaner in the world is still easier with less damage to you hair from pulling it out, than swapping out that switch, especially if it's the nut and bolt version instead of the extruded thread version! Congrats on fixing it the easy way!

So one thing to consider, this is a single cylinder engine. There is no way that something got into the cylinder and then someone tried to start it and mangled the rod, It's just not going to happen on a 1 lunger wit the pull rope or the electric starter. Something had to get in there quickly...

It's funny ( not really ) that you mention the liquid / air cooled possibility of a bent rod. I had seen the same loss of compression on 1 cylinder of an 803 I had and the cause was a very minor bend in the connecting rod, assumingly from water / coolant in the cylinder. I didn't even bother...

I just went to check out that Speedokote epoxy primer, looks pretty good for the price! If you decide to reduce it, pay no attention to the Zero VOC reducer statement, you can use Acetone or Urethane reducer I use acetone when I want a quicker dry and urethane reducer if it's hot out or if I...

Don't worry about the hours, the meters are not something to rely on anyway as it could have been changed at any any point. The Reset tags don't tell you a whole lot either other than the date it was reset and where. Look at the starter side of the engine. If there is a serialized tag on the...

If you haven't done so already you need to test the circuit to see where it's broken. Start it up and first verify you have 24V on the X terminal of K1 If so, follow the instructions in the TM, it will tell you to manually connect the Y terminal to ground with a jumper. If K1 is good it should...

Using an inhibitor definitely won't hurt anything, but usually sets that look like that either sat outside with the cover off or got wet and stayed wet for a while, somehow! That amount of rust and corrosion doesn't typically happen just from normal humidity etc.

Wow, I was just in Ontario a couple days ago and was happy to be leaving before the "Cold" rolled in.... but it's +2F there right now by according to the internet. I should have stayed longer to enjoy their warm weather! Thermometer here says -8F right now so still better than both of you...