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Let's go Rick... get on it! Don't risk a spun bearing over such a simple fix. You can't watch the gage 24/7 during an outage... and I think we all know, nothing ever breaks when it's most convenient for US! ;)

I tried looking at your pictures but it's hard to tell, if the valve hits the piston it will hit perfectly flat, but may leave a very faint mark in the top of the piston. I can't see anything in the pictures and the sludge piles on top of the pistons don't show any signs of piston contact that I...

I assume GP also failed to mention the gunshot would to the stator? Being that it's virtually undetectable to the naked eye and all.... ;)

I don't think I have ever bought from them, but the price looks good and they have a 100% rating. For pushrods, I have bought those from Mayi diesel before. DO not buy the used ones currently listed on ebay, he appears to have bumped his head ( real hard ) just before placing all his lpw4 parts...

Well, I just grabbed 2 sets for you and took a peek on line... https://www.ebay.com/itm/121761790834 I think I paid close to $20 per rod plus shipping.... here's a listing for $3.95 I don't think I can compete with that!

KnuckleDuster, if you haven't already purchased the pistons, you can also just get new rings from Mayi Diesel in standard bore .25mm .5mm .75 and 1.0mm oversizes. Just clean your ring lands good, hone and re-ring it. Let me know if you have any difficulty finding rod bearings, I have a couple...

While you're in there, I think removing the oil pump pickup and the pressure relief valve might not be a bad idea, if you find any sludge or evidence of rust in the crankcase.

You are so close to having the pistons out you may as well just do it. Better now than taking it all apart again if the rings are stuck! Pull the side cover and you'll be done in 20 minutes or less?

Ok, sounds good. Since you have to pull the injectors to do a compression test, you can also turn the line off to the side and hook the injector back up with it out of the cylinder to test it. You should have 4 very fine sprays coming out of the sides of the tip at 90* spacing.

Are you getting any smoke at all out of the exhaust? If the issue is low compression you would typically get a bunch of light gray smoke. If you aren't getting any smoke at all I would still suspect no fuel despite no results from the starting fluid. I'd do a little more digging before pulling...

Could be rings and I've seen my fair share of stuck valves, often times not frozen but just not seating due to excess carbon buildup around the valve and it's seat. Could be several other issues too. With that much pressure in the crankcase just spinning the motor over, I'd lean towards a piston...

Definitely looks like a cool, simple load bank solution. I think Guy's point is that you and I know enough not to touch it while in operation, but kids get curious.... and wildlife just doesn't know any better than to bump into it or stick their face in to investigate the water.... assumingly...

What size fuse did you put in there, was it 30A? I've seen them blow if the batteries have an issue, but if batteries are good and you had a 30A fuse in there and it keeps popping you will need to do a little digging.

One thing I would try is take one of the stiff pumps and compress it just about 1/8" or so and see if the lever frees up. When they are installed there's a slight amount of preload on them. I have see some that are stiff ( a little stiff ) in their free state, but free when compressed slightly...

Would appreciate some help, preferably without a scolding to read the TM. I have too many vehicles needing work to do much TM reading. Guy's not scolding you... he's just stating the facts. You should never be too busy to read how to operate and fix these things correctly, because NOT reading...

Obviously you too have caught Green Machine Fever.... once exposed, it multiplies and quickly consumes you. ( and your wallet )

So I believe he means he is able to "close" the contactor by holding the switch, but it doesn't stay closed. "Trip" was probably not the best term to use... ;) Did you check the switch to ensure the diode is installed ( correctly ) and you should also verify the diode is good. If that all...

Open the side door and see what the fuel shut off solenoid is doing when you turn off S1 Does it extend all the way out, towards the radiator? Is everything still attached correctly? Did the screw and knob fall out? Does the lever on the side of the motor rotate fully counterclockwise until it...

It's a very simple system so start at the left side of the transducer, do you have 120VAC or so coming into the transducer? If so and the transducer is known to be good, the only thing left is a bad or stuck gage and / or a broken wire. Check for power in first, then we will move on accordingly.