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Glad I could help you out in a time of need. This machine sure has had it's share of hidden secrets, the governor spring being only one of them! Can't wait to see what surprises Gen#2 holds for me! Did you really need help with them, or is this all a secret test?? ;)

I don't think you will find anyone selling a plunger, plus as mentioned, the plunger, body and metering block are a matched set and not intended to be interchanged. Before going much further I think we need to confirm if you really have a problem with the plunger or not. I do have a good PSU...

Definitely need to keep an eye on things. There is always a possibility it was coolant and not water from the environment. We've also seen sets with water in them because they were underwater in a flood. I'd change the oil and filter and put a 50/50 mix of oil and ATF in the crankcase. Run it...

It is one solid piece of hardened steel, so it will not have twisted or anything, but it does look odd, however I can't confirm they are supposed to be perfectly aligned without one to compare it with. If you take out the drive pin does the round shank come straight out from the rectangular...

I think you're talking about the bonding strip in the lower right corner of the lug panel, remove it to separate neutral from ground when running a 4 wire hookup.

Actually never mind, I was looking at it wrong. You have it assembled correctly.

roll the plunger over 180 degrees and take another picture, I think you have the drive pin in the wrong side of the plunger, but I don't have an old PSU plunger here to compare with your pic., just going by memory.

Well, I have an interesting story for you folks! Today I took in a newly acquired 802 that belongs to a friend, in an attempt to try to give him a hand. He said it runs and makes power but won't rev up to 1800 RPM. He dropped it off this morning, and of course, with about 1,000,000 other things...

Does it have an exhaust flap on it, or is it missing? If it's missing the flap and you have water in the oil you are probably in for a bit of work!

Ok, I went back and read your previous thread. Regarding compression, if you have 425 in both cylinders that is fine. The manual says anything over 325 is good. With the fuel pumps running do you hear fuel dribbling inside the tank through the return line? Remove the top cover and start it up...

Depending on how hard it is to turn the jack, a speed handle on your adapter might work great. That's what I use on smaller trailer's at least. As long as the jack doesn't require a lot of torque.

The short answer is Yes Absolutely valves can touch and pushrods can bend. I have never seen one with a bent valve because they just barely touch and they touch perfectly flat. Flat valve to flat portion of the piston. I've seen plenty of pistons with valve imprints in the carbon layer on the...

A little added clarification: The reason I suggest putting the old Overvoltage relay back in and unplugging the fault indicator is that you mentioned it USED to generate power for 5 minutes, but after you changed the overload relay it does not. Hopefully putting the overload back to original (...

Oh yea, definitely had some water in there at some point. When searching for a cover gasket, search by DN2M and / or LPW2 DO NOT search MEP-802A or you will pay way too much. PN is 752-10802 , it's called a crankcase door gasket...

Same here... If gage is correct, suspect the VR, but my money is on a bad gage.

Wow, that wave action almost made me sea sick! So far I'm not sure I really see anything all that abnormal. It's hard to tell without a better video, but it doesn't look as bad as I expected. Are all 3 of your control panel door locks working and do the twist down tight? The battery vibration...

Maybe it needs to be broken in still! ;) Start by checking for blow by. Could also be stuck oil control rings, or it really could just need to be broken in more if it wasn't done properly initially. Probably not valve guides at 200hr. You could also try pulling a valve cover just to inspect...

Thank you! Glad to help and glad to share my experiences, and yes.... been there and seen that! I've had at least 2 with the same issue, one was a pretty new, low hour machine... super clean. Ran fine in the warm weather, ( probably just barely got by with warmer oil ) but if temp was below...

It is most likely a bad volt gage, but get yourself a good DMM or better yet a Kill-A-Watt meter and first verify if the voltage truly is fluctuating or not. I've had a few do similar things and it was always a flakey gage, but gotta verify the actual voltage first!

Yup, you're burning it somewhere and quickly! Now just have to figure out where. Stuck rings, worn valve guides, maybe an issue with the crankcase vent or pushrod tubes? What do you have for hours on the engine? Will it pull a full load, 100% on the meter, around 14Kw max? When running...