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I'm next door in RI. and might have some things you may be interested in. Got a 2010 802 with under 30 hours on it, on the aluminum HMMWV trailer. Also have an 831 with around 140 hours and Kurt's controller in it. Plus a handful of real low hour 002's , but those don't seem to be on your wish...

A little heat on the threaded fitting might help. Not too hot, just warm it up a bit. Just don't go crazy because the fittings are soldered to the tank. You can also try putting your wrench on the float and hitting it with a dead blow hammer. You could run off your aux. storage tank and...

The Kill-A-Watt is a great thing to have. It's like $28 at Home Depot and probably cheaper on line. Use it to test your gen, then during an outage you can plug it in someplace convenient in your house where you can quickly see what the generator is doing without even leaving the couch or putting...

The return line from the IP to the tank is the -4 AN ( 1/4" JIC ) line. I believe the oil pressure gage feed line is also -4 Everything else ( fuel wise ) is -5 (5/16"JIC)

The only thing I can think of is corrosion between the studs and wires or a bad connection between one coil wire and the inner half of it's stud ( can't tell from picture how those connections are made ) I've seen this same issue but on an 002 in which the problem was some corrosion inside the...

If the starter is currently free spinning and not engaging the flywheel then the starter drive is damaged, but as the guys have pointed out above, it may have been the MPU or something else in the starter disconnect system that failed, causing the starter to not kick out at 900 rpm. So that...

That rattley sound does actually sound like a possible issue wit the starter gear banging into the flywheel while it's running. I believe you and Evvy have the right idea, pull out the starter and check if the bendix has an obvious problem, such as broken spring etc. If you don't see anything...

Get your batteries charged up and try again. As a test, from a cold start, hit the glow plugs for 30 seconds and then feel the intake where the pre-heaters are to be sure it feels warm. Then try feeling the glow plugs as well, to be sure that system is working. If so, warm them again and try to...

I'll send you a private message in a moment. My problem is I post a classified then never bump it up, so it eventually winds up way down on the list!

If your machine has the quad fuse modification mounted on the left side of the VR you can just pull the fuse out. If you don't have the fuse mod. you can remove the wire from #8 ( left most ) screw on the VR. Note: if you don't have the fuse you should add it before electrically testing the...

Forget trying to have it repaired, probably cheaper to buy a spare generator! I have a used stator I could sell you. Looks like you have insufficient posts to be able to send a private message yet, so speak up if interested and I will contact you. Before you buy anything you should pull it apart...

As a price reference point, a custom made hydraulic hose with the 5/16 JIC ends you need would be $19 each. ( $10 assembly fee and $9 for the fittings and hose ) The hose is cheap, $1.68 per foot, fittings are $3.49 so the length of the hose makes very little difference in cost, it's the...

Yes, -AN fittings from Summit are a definite option, but I have used them on race cars before and it is really difficult, time consuming and expensive to use. Each pre-made hydraulic hose assembly will cost less than just 1 reusable -AN fitting. There are also several old threads on here where...

I've always preferred to just have new hoses made. Easiest place is www.discounthydraulichose.com go on, design your own hose and they are on your door step 2-3 days later. You want AN-5 or 5/16 JIC female swivel ends. 1/4" or 5/16" hose, which ever uses cheaper fittings, and make your hoses a...

Now that was funny.....

Take your time and rest up Guy... We need to to be well again! Best wishes for a speedy and full recovery!

With regards to the fuel rail again, moving it from the throttle and / or fuel shut off lever won't tell you much of anything because the levers attach to the rack via springs, so they will always move, regardless of if the rack itself is moving. With lots of experience you can "Feel" the slight...

Ok, sounds like a potential fuel rail / stuck Metering pump pin issue as far as no fuel out of the metering pumps However it sounds like you still have some kind of DC voltage issue going on if you fuel stop solenoid is bouncing around. CallMeColt just posted a fantastic video the other day...

No Gel delivery and your fuel shut off solenoid is pulsing....?? Gotta love speech to Text! So is the shut off solenoid pulling back and holding steady when cranking or are you seeing an issue with it bouncing ( pulsing ) back and forth? Hard to tell what you said Vs. what your phone thinks you...

So are you saying the Temp and fuel gages work and only oil and hour meter are dead?? Power and ground for all the gages comes from the same daisy chain so I would suspect ALL gages would be dead. For the moment I would begin by checking 24V power at the gages ( and hour meter ) and if none...