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I know it’s wishful thinking, but would it be plausible for the left pad to be stuck on the pin and allow the piston to stay extended and advance more than it should? I am saying this because I had to hammer out the pin, it was totally stuck and a little bent, while the one on the driver side it...

Thank you! I appreciate the details. Are those replacements pads compatible with the 12k GVW and 12” rotors? I have been searching for a while to cross reference pads, as it seems I have the Wilwood Z-150-10479-PS or 5717285, which like you say are not cheap (about $250 for 4 pads). I...

Not sure how everyone else is collapsing the pistons in order to replace the pads without removing the caliper assembly and here is the easiest way I could think of, using a screw in place of the pin, combined with the existing pad, before taking it out: For even faster results, I recommend...

My 1165A1 truck had about 7,000 miles on it when I got it and the brakes looked good. After driving less than 1,000 miles, the front passenger left brake pad (looking at it from the front) is completely worn out, with the left caliper pistons being extended almost double than the right side...

I don’t know why they would come loose, but reading around the forum, found some comments saying to check the alternator bracket as it sometimes gets loose and thought maybe it’s a known problem.

Good to hear that it should not be a problem. I was just researching the engine and ways to increase the power and I constantly heard about blown gasket on these engines.

You are exactly right, and I don’t know how many have blown gaskets in that front area. I brought it up just in case it is more common and usually very few try to correlate why a gasket blew in certain area vs another. From what I read, blown gaskets are relatively common, maybe RWH can...

Ok, let’s set aside bolts #1 & #16 being loose, that’s the worst case situation. The lower bracket is about 1/3 the mass and twice the length of the upper bracket and it has only one support point vs three, therefore it will flex a lot more during driving, especially over bumps or rough...

Yes, the three bolts holding the alternator to the head are not TTY. What I meant is that the alternator is connected to the block indirectly via the same TTY bolts that hold the head and it applies additional stress to one’s towards the engine front. Instead, its whole weight, or most of it...

Maybe this was discussed before and I couldn't find anything about it...I am not a mechanical engineer, but looking at the way the 200A alternator is attached to the driver side cylinder head (I am talking about the 6.5L, but maybe it's the same on the 6.2L), it doesn't feel right. Statically...

Where did you place the EGT probe? Could you please share details about your water/methanol injection system? Maybe pictures? I searched the whole HMMWV forum and found only two water/ methanol mentions, both by you.

Anyone knows of pyrometer/ egt, boost and transmission temp gauges with black bezel, white pointer and green backlight (or user replaceable backlight) to match the HMMWV ones? What gauges are you happy with the look and function?

Yes, the transmission temp monitoring is on my list also and I read that there is already a thermistor built into the transmission, do you know the pin-out where to connect to access it?

OK, got it, I can see it better in the opened one below where you installed it (it's on the other side of the circle, in that general area): What's your oppinion about those two locations marked EGT1 and EGT2? Those seem easier to drill from inside the cabin and with the engine installed/...

Ok, I think I see it, the little silver dot to the left of the arrow. How did you keep the metal shavings from dropping in when drilling? Or did you do it with the engine on the bench, taken apart? Would the temperature be closer to maximum at the cylinder heads than at this location?

Agree and I am looking to add an EGT gauge, where is the best practical place where you guys installed the probe?

OK, here is the full progression...I started with a 5/16 Allen wrench that has a 3/8" input, driven by the 1/2" impact wrench with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, and there was no movement. In the past, I had a similar situation on a tire 7/8" nut that didn't come out with the impact wrench, but it did...

Yes, I think heat is the key, I did try the vice-grips (larger ones to get more torque) and it took off pieces of the plug head without any plug movement. If the plug Allen head wouldn't have stripped first, then the 5/16" key would have broken, it was already twisted half way. I will give the...

You are exactly right, I love metal and have many other tools, the welder seems like a missing piece. If I go the welding route, I would still get someone with experience to do this job while I get up to speed practicing.

I bought over 100 new nuts and a buch of bolts too to replace any that seems to have a distorted thread.