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I don’t know what a holding loop is. I even did a search and couldn’t find anything related to any Diesel engine besides common rail ones. What are you trying to do?

The stock direct drive support bracket went out of production a few years ago. Only available used now. The reduction drive starter motor bracket is still available new.

I always thought the knurling was there because that is the part that is supposed to be in contact with the aluminum starter motor nose. Being a US made part 35 years ago, tolerances were not exactly all that tight in the design and even looser in practice. Plus, there is the support bracket...

I am not trying to pick a fight with any one. The reason I suggested replacement of the regulators is I used to think a few extra volts with no load meant no big deal I can just turn on the lights and all will be fine. One of my M1009's was always at the top of the green and 28.8-29.2 volts...

Anymore that 14.4 volts points to a bad voltage regulator. I suggest replacement. Delco 27 si alternator is what the trucks came with.

I think it is Wreckerman that describes the window crank design best: "Invented by an idiot after consulting a committee of morons." It reads like you have the tail gate laying flat with the panel off to access the inside already and the glass either removed or out of the way and supported...

Glad to help. Be nice to those switches by the way. Nobody is making them anymore.

There are two toggles for the black out and service lights on the CUCV trucks. The black out drive light is a momentary switch. If you have the other switch set to black out lights and then hit the black out drive light switch. The drive light should turn on but the switch will go back to the...

The 6.2 is an indirect injection engine. Any temperature below 150° is considered cold to this style of engine and glow plug use is needed. Keep that in mind once you get the batteries and starter right.

The air regulator is on the engine side of the firewall pretty much in the middle. But they click and thunk. Not howl. Look under the radiator at the frame rail on the drivers side. That is where the horn wire comes out of the steering column shaft. That wire is hot at all times so put on...

Do you mean the fuel return lines?

Do all he listed above since they are common maintenance items you should be doing anyway. Also check your vacuum line from the vacuum pump to the throttle position valve on the side of the OP and then both rubber and metal vacuum lines all the way to the transmission. Plus the vacuum can on...

Check battery voltage. If you have good terminals at the battery, voltage at the battery and still nothing with any switch inside. Try removing all the ground wires, cleaning them and putting them back together. If still nothing, check voltage at the starter motor. If present there, you...

Loose wire on the solenoid, failing solenoid, crud or something kept the starting from evening sitting against the block? I'm just throwing ideas out because to me it seems something isn't right with the starter unit itself. Pull it back off and ground test it. Verify the Bendix is moving all...

I was just suggesting you verify power is actually getting to the glow plugs. While you are doing that, Ohm out the plugs themselves to verify they are still good.

30 seconds of cranking is going to kill your starter motor. White smoke on the diesel engine means there is fuel but not enough heat. You wrote that the glow plugs were replaced recently. Are you sure they are all getting power?

I would suggest pulling the access panel and figuring out exactly what is stopping the glass from going all the way down. I had one where an arm of the regulator was hitting a bolt and it wouldn’t go all the way down sometime. Another with the end felt felt so bad it was in a wad keeping the...

I would love to have a cable for on/off. Like you though, I have only heard about it. Not actually seen it.

Technical Manual TM9-2320-289-20 appendix F diagram F-1 is the stock starting circuit. That diagram shows the purple/white wire is the signal from the ignition switch. The stock relay then sends power to the purple wire which is bolted to the starter solenoid. There is no blue wire. I would...

As stated in both the threads you searched out and brought back to life. The under dash relay on a stock truck is where the 12 and 24 volt systems meet. It isn't needed in a pure 12 volt truck. I would suggest tracing the wires you have. What ever wire is on the small terminal of the...