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Bouncing at idle is 100% normal but if it doesn't settle out when the engine RPM comes up somethings wrong.

Spectra Premiun SP1143MP fuel pumps for the HMMWV currently run between $20 and $40. https://herko.com/Retail/spectra-premium-mechanical-fuel-pump-sp1143mp-for-am-general-hummer-1993-1993.html https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/spectra+premium,SP1143MP,fuel+pump,6256

If you got this truck for $12K you got an excellent deal!! Welcome to the circus!

The older AMA 5102 alternator used a regulator with 4 pins while the current AMA 5104 uses 3 spade connections. Unfortunately they look pretty much the same. Did you install the right one?

You can go to the local hardware store and get a copper strap used for pipe hanging to make up ground straps for the lights. Quick and easy.

In a normal system wire 2A has a Packard style connector on it and 5A has a ring lug. Hopefully someone hasn't cut them off.

One of the best things you can do with the radios is turn them on and cycle the tuning controls. This "wipes" down contacts that can oxidize over time.

Keep in mind that your "once never issued" PRC-77 is now getting on to be 50 years old and sitting on the shelf has never been a good thing for any of the VRC-12 series of radios. They have a propensity to die on the shelf in the dark of the night when there's no one around. A well known...

Not much winter down in Cams Mojaveland either! Just lot's of alien spacecraft to study. LOL! Sorry Cam, Hadda do it!! Kurt

Mogman, I differ with you on the necessity of adding the grounding kit to our trucks. While your basic principle is correct about the trucks original design being fully functional, who can say what's these things have been thru over the years and how much of the original bodies bonding is...

Turning the control potentiometer CCW increases the voltage! Turning it CW decreases it. Something else is wrong because normally you don't have that kind of adjustment range. Have you checked for AC on the output? You might have a bad diode pack that's frying the regulator. There are 2 of...

That small lead (56B) is the alternator exciter wire and should be 24v. Jumper the alternator output stud to it and see what the output goes to. If you look at the schematic you'll see that's the way it's normally connected.

This is the quickest and simplest way to do a trailer lamp conversion and is the best way to eliminate creating problems. Look for LEDs that operate from 10-30 volts. It just adds that much more flexibility.

A couple years back I bought a number of these David Clark 40776G-01 headsets because of their single earpiece design and have been using them in my HMMWV ever since. They do need a mike bias to work but it's an easy job to add a small battery inside the PTT box to make them work. They're...

You can buy them from the antenna manufacturer. I have a friend that went there directly and bought 3 of them. https://www.rami.com/product/as-3916vrc-with-gps/

It was probably added as the electronic equipment in the trucks got more and more sophisticated. It's a simple operation to add to any vehicle with a "Y" connection and a short cable with the diode mounted in it. Backswing diodes are very common anywhere solenoids are used because of the big...

54C is a backswing diode that's meant to shunt and electrical spike from the IP solenoid turning off to ground keeping it from getting back into the electrical system and damaging more sophisticated electronics, it's surprisingly underrated. A fitting replacement would be a 1N5400 diode rated at...

Gentlemen, Sielman is a Greek manufacturer of the Prestolite/Leece-Neville 60 amp AMA5104 alternators. Southern Automotive is the American manufacturer of these alternators and their parts so their front housing will fix this problem. 100 and 200 amp alternators that cost upwards of $500 is a...

Or you could just go here: https://www.cubehostc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=911076

blutow, Amp hours is a measure of power that can't be done with a shunt by itself. Shunts only measure current.