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@18operator What shade of green is that? It seems kind of "bright" for 383 green. Lots of great advice here. Thanks.

I ran a search but all the Rapco advice seems to deal solely with their rattle cans. What with the big quarantine going on, I'm not willing to travel to the local home stores for a gallon of Behr paint. I've decided that I'm going to order a gallon of 383 Green from Rapco to shoot the troop...

You're a good story teller, with lots of photos. I'm almost as excited as you are, for the first start-up!

Ouch. Sorry for your troubles.

That's what I was using. :)

Figured out my mild overheating problem from yesterday. Apparently I had a very slow weep that let the coolant out over time, but only while driving. Never a drop on the driveway but the sway bar was slimy with coolant where it was blown down by the fan. No time like the present for the...

Went out for fuel today, noticed the fan didn't kick on and the engine temp increased. Fortunately, I was close to home. I'll follow the troubleshooting steps in this thread and see what's broke.

It takes about 24 hours to get to 0 psi. I figured for a leak that fast, I should be able to see something. I haven't had a chance to mess with it yet.

@BradIXXI- The Diesel Mobil 1 you have selected is fine. Other Mobil 1 oils are not for use with diesel engines. There ARE diesel and gasoline classifications of oil as described by the API (American Petroleum Institue). When selecting an engine oil, look on the bottle for a "C" or an "S."...

You mean the red gladhand? That's a commercial part.

Aha! This explains my configuration. I have that alternator but the 14v wire was not run. I have the 3L80 transmission. I would like to run that wire to power low, 12v loads like a cell phone charger.

I have no advice but I'm following with interest. When looking at the contents of an airpack rebuild kit, I see a lot of little, fiddly bits. I think this is one of those tasks that rank as "not difficult, but requires attention to detail." I'm following with interest.

That sucks. Hopefully just a gasket. A pressure test will hopefully reveal the leaky head.

@gringeltaube Ah, very helpful! I'm a visual learner.

Yes, I soaped up the valve stem where it meets the rim. Nothing. After checking the -20, the O-ring is not where I thought it was. The O-ring seems to be on the "back side" so it seems that I do need to remove the wheel and spray down the back side...or at least jack up the truck and spray it...

My neighbors thought I was a badass for replacing my M813 transfer case. This is totally next-level stuff. Very educational to watch.

I have a Wrangler M/T with a slow leak. I have shot soapy solution all over this thing and can't seem to find any leaks. I may need to remove the wheel and lay it horizontally to check for leaks again. Is it common for the wheel O-rings to spring a leak? It doesn't seem like a big deal to...

I replaced the 36" bias tires with a set of Wrangler M/T's on 12-bolt wheels today. I expected a minor improvement and also hoped to eliminate a "thumping" or off balance feeling from the driver's front tire. The improvement is HUGE. The ride is better, it tracks better, it's much quieter...

@Coug ah, ok! I checked the speedo against a gps app today and it's spot-on. I'm not changing anything but the tires.

My reading seems to indicate that colors are often a branding thing. Lithium complex is compatible with many other types of grease but not (for example) polyurea based grease such as Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty grease. Here's a compatibility chart for your reference...