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Would like to know more about how to solve these problems too, but let's move it to another thread huh?

Or... leave the tractor plate on there and mount the M105 bed to that like a few other people have done. We're converting a bunch of our cargo trucks to tractors and then re-mounting all the beds like that. Cargo bed sits 12" above the framerails and the tractor plate is 12.5" tall. Biggest...

My brother took one of our 5-tons (hightop M923A2) down to the King of the Hammers to race and I wasn't impressed either. Even aired all the way down to 'emergency', wasn't able to climb moderate sandhills. Lots of wheel-hop.

Ah, now I understand. Would still be a lot stronger if you were to reinforce the bumper by boxing the backside, as opposed to just adding more material to the front of it. Does the mounting point need to be at any particular height?

Steve, you'd know better than anyone. What are the limits? Stock? Built?

Why would any holes would need to be drilled? There are already tons of bolt-holes in the framerails for attaching winch extensions and bumpers and whatever else. Maintain that bolting would be preferable to welding anything into place in this situation. Especially given the differences in...

Thanks, know he's in Europe. Was just wondering why it's done that way over there. Would prefer to bolt something like this to a vehicle myself, and you'll end up with a lot stronger pull-point if you create some type of boxed structure. Much stronger than a piece of flat plate or C-channel...

Wondering how that would work. Sounds like you're talking about using something like a single towbar leg? Why? Seems like mounting something more like a traditional towbar to the shackle-mounts would be a much better solution?

Not without either lifting the bed or limiting the suspension. Even the stock 14.00's rub on full-compression on a stock cargo truck.

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Any links to more info?

Oh, I see what he was saying. Yeah, the runflats also function as beadlocks.

Pretty sure all MRAP wheels are of the bolt-together variety, and with any kind of insert in there, they're 'beadlocked'.

Well sure, but the bead-width might be different on the 395 & 14.00 tires. Know that's an issue when using run-flats or PVC inserts in hmvwvwwwee wheels with some tires. Might not be a bad idea to throw them in the front wheels/tires at least, as a blow-out up front at freeway speeds could be...

Can you put the run-flats from MRAP wheels with 395's on 5-ton wheels with 14's?

Dunno how you're coming up with those numbers, but it sounds like you're talking about static loads and you'd need to multiply that by many times to calculate the strength required to endure the dynamic forces involved (acceleration, braking, etc.). What I'd be concerned about is the domino...

Doesn't have to.

Well sure I can see how that would turn into a nightmare, but I'm talking about swapping parts between two versions of the same vehicle (M931A2 & M923A2).

Wouldn't worry about the eyelets failing, as much as the pins bending. That's not an ideal setup, with the slop between the eyelet and the pin and the spaces between the eyelets and the tabs. If the heim-joints failed it would put massive bending loads on those pins (instead of being in shear...

Appreciate that, but I want to learn more about air brakes - how they work and how to work on them. Other than the trolley brake and the 5th wheel gladhands, how to the air brakes on the tractors differ from the air brakes on the cargo trucks? Doesn't seem like it should be too difficult...