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I'm still unsure. What is the seal lip side? The flat or beveled side? I'm inclined to go with Gringeltaube's picture unless someone has compelling evidence otherwise! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachments/deuce/250906d1306796626-windshield-frame-seal-orientation-inner-ws-rubber-seal.jpg

Hmm, that's opposite of what the thread linked above said! (plus another thread linked within that one!)

That PNG drawing 2 posts up won't open for me. My question is: does the beveled side or the flat side face forward?

As much as they rub and contact each other, I doubt it. But keeping a running winch properly lubed should prevent future rust.

Yeah the bearings are the same size. The worm gear shaft will push the bearing out. I could never get it to move with a mallet or hammer (with wood in between). The only thing that worked for me was an arbor press. I guess you saw that if you read the thread, though.

Springer seat shock absorber: Monroe 66104

Also just to reference the civilian-equivalent seat shock in this thread: Monroe 66104 is the shock. Cheapest place I found to buy it online was Stengel Bros. Inc. they had it for just under $33 plus shipping. White Owl has NOS deuce seat shocks, I think they said $57.

Ok here are a few tips for disassembling the seat base: 1) the TM suggests some kind of puller / threaded rod to hold the seat compressed to remove the shock. Instead soldier b can sit on the seat ( if soldier b weighs around 100 lbs) 2) once the shock is out, the coiled spring can easily be...

The new shaft gave me an improvement of 5 mm clearance and it was enough! Thank you again gringeltaube for your patience and precision. I owe you a few beers!

Holy cow, amazing. Thank you again Mr. G. (and it looks like a 1mm difference at the base of the keyway, even less at the lip!) I will install the new shaft as soon as time allows and compare.

The TM details how to take the top-end apart but not the base. Any tips for removing those big bushings that hold the two lower sections together?

Your drum lock poppet could be rounded off or sheared--did you take it apart? That's the only way to know for sure.

Received the new shaft; looks the same. Wrapped in paper and made pencil rubbings of the 2 keyways: they line up identically. Now I'm stumped again.

Same here. Much of this thread is blank on tapatalk.

If my status as thread starter carries any weight, lock it up! And p.s. in light of this information, threads about transmissions should avoid use of the word "tranny." gazongas chesticles mamaries life preservers

Ted's Trucks has these in stock there's a thread about it...they are on ebay as well (from Ted's Trucks)

Agreed, I didn't mean to start a problem here. The question has been answered that's good enough for me. knockers ta-tas cans headlights

HA HA I get the point! New sigline: Hooters jugs bazoombas melons d-cup pokeys party hats (hey, a guy can try, right?)

If political discussion is not allowed, why are political ads accepted?

I thinned with Xylene. 1 part to 4 parts. What I learned today: Painting on the Gillespie is about 10X EASIER than spraying the Rusty Metal Primer. Just not near as thick as the primer is.