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SAE #2 clutch housing is now installed onto the 13 speed trans. This is a hydraulic release housing only, no provision for mechanical linkage. Second port is only inspection window. New gasket with hi-tack on it, and cranked down with a 1/2" impact. Forklift was out of battery otherwise I...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Tp-QPNz6e2M

If you remove or leave off the outer seal, that is OK, but you will need to make sure both bearings have some type of initial lube before driving, as it does take some time for diff fluid to travel down to the end of each axle tube. Wad of grease in each is enough. This is spec procedure for...

*crickets*

Isn't it fun when nobody wants to check the manual? If I look at there is an outer seal, you'll need to sing the "I'm wrong" song Simp. Poster is on the right path of being concerned and investigating. One rear should not necessarily be hotter than other rears at any given time. If all...

I thought a1's were outer seal. This means the inner and outer bearings are grease lubed. I really should check the manual instead of advising by the seat of my pants, I have never had mine apart. If both sides of one axle are off the ground, you should be able to spin one hub and the other...

Bearing preload needs to be a pinch loose, actually. On a semi-truck, Timken recommends the hub be able to slightly click when pushed straight in and out. This is because as the bearing heats and expands, that free clearance then becomes near zero. I think a2's w/CTIS run no outer seals, so...

Cab looks great, nice work.

Cleaned up the rocker box for the Jake signal pass-throughs. Removed non-Jake rocker box.

Input shaft retainer resealed, drain hole aligned. Clutch brake installed. Mount clutch housing next.

Rear main oil seal and oil pan resealed, so I was able to install the flywheel for good, and the clutch. Flywheel is a cup or pot type, and had 6 drive pins which locate to a floating drive plate between the double-disc clutch. I then installed the clutch housing upside sown so I could get a...

On my lunch break today I swapped the intake air grid heater to a 24v unit, installed the heater core supply fitting on back of block with new O ring, and installed the flywheel and clutch assembly (those pics in trans thread). Also did a test fit of the Pac Brake exhaust brake that came on the...

ISL doesn't go to 550hp. 400hp tops for older ones, 450hp for newer ones.

Rear crank seal is finally redone. Mounted factory 3 micron filter back on engine with stock bracket. Few small things to button up and we can do a test fire and hang the trans. Fuel pump, grid heater, Jakes, that should about do it.

Ummm, well, I'm thinking about posting one...not sure I can bring myself to do it. Let's just say be sure to set your parking brake when walking away from your truck.

Thanks. No, those are disposable items. Hope turbo lives longer. Probably going to lose the red, it just looks like Christmas up against the green. Engine will be full 24 volt now. This includes ECM, engine mounted inline fuel lift pump, intake air grid heater and relay, starter...

Sorry, I mis-read your earlier post. I should probably just stay out of 250 engine posts huh?

Could be the overheat sensor you mention, since no warning lights are on. Low air should trip a dash light. Find the possible overtemp switch on the engine and unplug it, retest. I don't know where this is.

Turbo drain tube arrived and test fit OK. All 5 turbo lines are now done. 2 oil, 2 coolant, and air VGT actuation. Next up is to redo the rear main and oil pan gasket, swap out the engine mounted fuel lift pump for the 24 volt unit, same with the intake air grid heater, mount the 3 micron...