Search results

Fix is easier than it looks. Just had it happen to me. Each rod has a replaceable bushing in each end that presses in and out. Cut the cotter pins, then a 2-1/4" end wrench to remove the castle nuts. Use 2 wrenches extended to double the force to shear the cotter pin. Replacement bushings...

It's a nicer name than what most call me.

I just set a tool box on the accel pedal and steer with my knees so I can eat cinnamon rolls and my favorite beverage.

Ummm, it is just a posted part number. Not much to follow.

You'll pop the pump gear off like you did, then back the crank pulley up 6 degrees by rotating it counter-clockwise when viewed from the front. Then cinch the pump gear back on.

That's not yours, it has an $800 electric lift pump on it. Nice fit though, looks stock.

16 degrees is what the majority of all the 8.3L RV guys run that seek mileage and power gains. They were the largest group of personally owned 8.3's I could find, that tinker with them. Our stock timing is 8 degrees, theirs is 12'ish, and they were noting gains of 2-3mpg by moving to 16, and...

If you are asking me, I bought a 400hp Cummins ISL (8.9L) common rail EFI + VGT roller cam engine from a 2005 RV. I did it just to whip Simp's truck next time he comes poking around MI again. Install during Sept. Timing bump on any 8.3L should help mileage greatly though, and small power bump.

....or you could put an 8.3L pump in, with the rest of the engine connected to it. Get you to that oyster place a little quicker...

This is cool. We can all tell him what to do from states away. Here, I'll go next: Hey Simp, put some rubber in between those rear mounts. He's further along than I am. All I have done is buy a 6 bolt PTO cover plate and some new split lock washers for my Road Ranger. Would suck a big...

Even the OP has a sense of humor. Besides tobyS, what's up with the rest of you? Winch is is only going to be as strong as the traction holding it back. If you really want to pull it over, you'll have to chain the truck to another tree, and then use a snatch block to get any real force, and...

You're fine. You did not say it was me directly, I bent those words a little. Probably why Delco Remy is closing it's doors. Borg Warner bought them and moved all the starter/alternator people to electric vehicle traction motor group, envisioning vehicles to not require starter/alternators soon.

Uh, so now what Cleadus?

Same here. I had both rears making out with each other on one side when it happened to me in sand after cresting a steep hill. Pulled and held axle into position with 3" wide ratchet straps in forward and rear directions, 4 total, drove it home 70 miles (torque rod still disco'd), no hard...

Just hook it up, let all the winch cable out in a wad on the ground, and take off. Let us know what happens.

You were running 5 electric fans and the alternator reached its temp limit. The temp limit is set by Delco, not me. Not really on board with "I got a bad alternator from Clint". I believe a path of fresh air that you gave it improved the situation. Cracked fan too I believe, I will refund...

Thanks. I really didn't want to blow my own horn. A lot of people think the stock military alternator must be the best one, because that is what it came with. But in this case, it is not. They are junk, and have about 4 different commonly seen failure modes, some of which are the pulley...

NTC (turbo and charge air cooler), but I still say:

Ordered and received twelve 3/8" thick x 5.5" OD steel discs with 1/2" holes in the center. I'm going to install these over the end of each torque rod (dog bone) end to keep it in place if it slips off again, drill and tap 1/2" bolt.