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Same as I would think. The newer one is matched to a newer ISL engine in its original application, which is going to be more efficient than an older 250 engine (less heat/hp), and especially an older 250 engine turned up, you should really be kicking out some heat in comparison. You reduced...

In if less than $1,000, out if not.

That's about as clear as the sideway gauge pic you took with your calculator. Are you saying your new radiator setup works well or does not work better than stock? I get one ran hotter and one cooler, but unsure which-which. Or, maybe you got the ol' 250 running so fast you are going for...

It may be a loose connection somewhere that is vibrating at idle (ground)? But, when running, it does not seem like you are charging anyway? If you are still running the stock alternator, tweak the voltage adjustment screw just a pinch up and see if your problem goes away. Sometimes they can...

Because it does. But that does not mean it is a "P" pump. The injection pump on the military 6CTA8.3 is a Bosch MW pump. An MW pump is widely used in agriculture applications, DT466, and Mercedes engines, amongst others. Numerous Bosch injection pumps look like a "P" pump, including an "A"...

It's not a Bosch P-7100 pump. It just looks like one. It is still a Bosch inline pump, known as an MW pump. Does not have a fuel plate in it or 12mm plungers.

The ISL is from an RV, so you may be spot on, but I think vs your old 250 wheezer, it may look a little more like this:

You'll be looking down the barrel of 400 SAE certified horsepower linked to 13 speeds of Road Ranger just after August.

Pulley interface is one of several weak points of the stock alternator. Once warbled out, this already weak interface becomes even worse, never to get better. This keyed joint is not commonly utilized anymore, for good reason, it doesn't work well long term through various harmonics...

I know. Me too bud. I'm bummed about the 2200rpm limit, that is the same as what I have now. If I turned up my 6CTA8.3, I could reach 3000rpm or higher. But, with the OD 13 speed trans (0.89:1 I think), I'm hoping it will make up for it. I have not found a reasonable way to get additional...

You can also size it the other way around. Turbos are sized by air mass flow, which is a direct correlation to hp, so, they can be sized by target hp essentially. This can be plotted on a compressor map, to put the turbo at a specific efficiency area on the map. It is not as difficult as it...

Just 2 cans of rattle. Wait till we get the turbo housing back, then we'll talk.

Maybe driver side was a little heavy, and it finally rode level? http://www.weightwatchers.com Starter weighs 29lbs by the way, unless you are adding 6lbs of greasy fingerprints all over it.

No large updates, and transplant will happen after August, as I don't want the truck down for the upcoming 1 million people event of Woodward Dream Cruise that I attend. Meanwhile, I am awaiting the turbo compressor housing (cover) to be mirror polished. I will next check flywheel and clutch...

My fav movie. You just went up a notch.

I'd rather have a turbo manual than an auto natural, but I do hope it works well for you. Thread should be in 5t mod.

Looked at the slipped dog bone on my 9, and decided to go to a Ratt concert instead.

He's doing it because he does not want my 13sp Road Ranger to eat his lunch.

ET would have liked to have those instead of a fork and record player.

The mechanical shut down lever of the MW injection pump is spring loaded to default to the run position. The default position of the shut off solenoid is engine stop position, and is much stronger than the pump lever. If any doubt, it is very quick to simply unplug and remove the solenoid...