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https://archive.org/details/fmtv-schematics-a-0-a-1-r

Looks the same to me. Get the harness from Tom that I linked above.

Show us the connections at the back..... but given that the Gen 2 basically plugged into the existing heater wiring and then only required the AC harness I linked to above I wouldn't think the Gen 1 would be any different. The AC harness has a 24v lead from the PDP (I ran mine to the 24v main...

I doubt the wiring is any different. I would recommend you just get the harness from Tom: https://lmtvtrucks.com/AC/index.html I posted the trinary switch pinout in my AC installation post in case you desire to change that out for a different model like I did.

Sadly I think you will find the tires are flat spotted and ultimately on their way to being rotten - the vibration comes and goes as a result of the flat spots aligning or opposing and canceling each other out. My 2008 tires did this trick but did round back out and stop after daily driving my...

Were you getting a lot of feedback from pot-holes, etc? I've done a bit off-road and also our roads have lots of pot-holes, etc and I really don't notice any jerking of my wheel..... on the contrary the power steering is ultra powerful and my truck tracks perfectly straight...... Very cool...

Well - I deal with a lot of batteries being in the automotive industry and I can say that the quality in recent years has trended down - I'm told at least partially being built to a price but also the increasing use of "dirty" recycled lead that is not of the best quality. At any rate AAA (who...

A1+ trucks do have ECM's so they get their information in a much more typical fashion. Also less wiring since most of the "data" is over a serial bus and so only a few wires to carry the various protocols. It's actually simpler in a lot of ways - just requires different tools and techniques to...

Rubberized coating is a HUGE fail. It generally just results in sealing in the moisture and salt and causes worse corrosion - any minor rock chip will cause corrosion to spread under it. The best choices are self-healing surface coatings like Fluid-Film, Blaster Surface Shield, or a wax based...

Interesting - how was that mounted? The stock unit is a rubberized fabric canvas material that wraps around the radiator.

I did turn over the compressor to ensure it would spin freely. And I fired up the system and it works great so far - I started with 3.75 lbs of refrigerant as my friend suggested and next time it's warm out I'm going to check the sight glass (it has a small one on the drier) and also watch...

Paint and done! Bracket is steel and of a thickness that is plenty ridgid for this application. The cushioned loop clamp is snug on the pipe fitting. (y)

I'll look when I get home but I'm pretty sure it's just grounding an ECM pin. The 4.8v is probably 5v reference from the ECM and grounding it momentarily probably toggles the high/low idle. I'll confirm in a few minutes.

Engine vibration, and the proximity of this hose to the pulley - it needs a bracket here for sure. Made one up. Pulled it back off for paint after this trial fit. It also keeps the compressor clutch wire managed away from moving parts.

I've never noticed any difference. I don't regularly use my battery disconnect - pretty much only if I'm doing electrical work, etc. I do drive my truck almost every day but it has also sat for weeks and had no issues. The transmission behavior is always the same. YMMV - my truck has the 3700SP...

1.5 years after ordering the initial batch of parts my AC is now functional! Vacuum and leak check passed with 100%. No loss of vacuum was detected. It took my machine 58 minutes (at a very non-optimal ambient temp of ~50 degrees) to charge 3.75 lbs of R134. The results I think speak for...

I'm not so sure about an aftermarket condenser - these units are REALLY big. About 4" thick. The aftermarket one's I've seen used are clearly undersized as they lower the system charge by .5 to .75 lbs. They may be more efficient but their fin density is really high and the location for the...

The hoses are a wrestling match to get installed. Pulling the grill, pulling the skid plate, and partially raising the cab are necessary. Today I got all the hoses and wiring routed, and fully tested the wiring for 24v to the compressor clutch, and 24v to each fan connector - and the fording...

So I did a bunch more digging since I'm about to charge my system tomorrow. The answer appears to be that Sanden ships all their compressors with a full system charge of oil for the application they are intended for and only if the system is larger than 4lbs or has very long hoses would more oil...

Do you have LED's on the voltage regulator? If so what are they showing?