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I couldn't come up with an easily engineered way of using the whole fan and air chute. The 5T has a big square hole and the fan had a small round exhaust outlet. If you figure a way to use the whole fan, I would like to see. I was was not the seller on fleabay. Growing up up on a farm, I...

I know the 1st one i built had some engineering 'issues' so I cant run it on high, but low was more than enough to keep the window defrosted at 0*F when we played Sat. morning and it did blow all the bugs and dust out of the defroster which had an old motor running a few hours earlier.

Swamp Donkey here is the write up on the build http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?163550-Heater-blower-motor-Mod-with-MRAP-blower&p=1963919#post1963919

I am using the 42 amp version, there is a 28 amp but all the ones I had were going to need lots of works. This one was clean, the smoke had not been let out of the wires yet so it got used. Check the donor MRAP fan motor to make sure it works. Pin B is battery and Pin E is ground, they are both...

you are correct on 28 amps, the heater CB is 30 amps, so just squeaked under. I only run mine on low, high speed sounds like its going to eat through the fire wall, but this is also the first run, so there will be upgrades.

I had one in SFOR that was in an accident, after all the repairs were completed, called it finished, parked it on the done line, went to deliver vehicle, dead batteries, installed new batteries, it ate a PCB and another set of batteries in less than a week. It had reverse polarity at the...

Got tired of changing heater blower motors, this is the 4th ruined motor between 2 trucks. Used a mrap vent fan, will do a write up when I get to building the 2nd motor. 2nd photo is a comparison between old and new motor sizes How to do this is written up here...

ok, so if 20 batteries cost $7grand, that makes each $350 each. The was a screenshot from their website.

My vote is for Optima yellow tops, have had 4 in a big truck since 09, 1 on a 50kw onan genny for about 4 years, 1ea in 2 different civ vehicles. I wont buy any other kind.

welcome from Guymon

That would be cool to set a Jenny on

What is y'all's opinion on putting a couple desiccate packets in the case?

OK, I have a head scratcher. This was the screen I got after replacing the screen, I had swapped CIM's with another 'B' that I have, and it worked just fine, so I stick the original back in, still no go, soooo it sits on the broke line waiting its turn to get back in the shop. I go out today...

The T from the 5th wheel to the pintle appears to be at the tractor protection valve which is located on the frame just to the front of the air dryer directly below the pogo stick. That would be another place to check. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1vA1EnNJZ4

I will look at mine tomorrow to see. I will bet there is just a T under the 5th wheel air hoses that directs air to the rear.

Mine has a red valve and blue valve that shut of the air at the bottom of the pogo stick right on top of the deck, so that when you pull a pintle trailer all your air doesnt leak from your 5th wheel trailer hose. Photo to come in the light tomorrow.

What was under the plywood flooring under the tile? Is that what the 4x4 beams on 12" centers and spray foam is?

Went to give you a thanks on your post, and its not there...... Thanks for everything patracy

The head may be a bit pricey, it has a built in primer pump. Mine isnt available at this time or I would get you some better photos. It is being used to heat a gym so if it warms up here, I will go take the top off to get some photos of the head for you.

Here is a pic of the fuel filter and number if that helps. Wherever you get the filter, just ask if they have the number for the head.