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The ones on my troop seats are fiberglass. Definitely NOT wood. They are moulded in a way that there are channels for the fasteners to hold.
But as someone said, the troop seats are one of those things, either you want or you don't. And it seems more people don't want them, so you may be...
See your left side of the dash, there is a meter that detects how dirty the air filter is. If you broke the hose it could whistle, as it'll let air in through the hose.
-) Batteries, I got 6TLs from O'Reilly. Reasonably prices and I was able to get them quickly.
-) Keyed Ignition - Don't, seriously.. Don't.. it will last 6 months and fail, then you'll replace it and it'll last 6 months and fail. Instead look at something like the "Digital Guard Dawg Humvee...
I used magnesium polish on mine (the stuff made for wheels). Then after that got all the 'gunk' and deep scratches out, used the Meguiars Plastic cleaner and polish. Still some haze on the edge by the metal, but the middle the gauges are now clear.
Different manufacturers may have different shape gaskets, but they should all be compatible. Other then shape there is thickness of course. For the stock thickness gaskets, both of your pictures are probably fine, based on the block and heads only having one pattern.
Yup, and the only difference in the standard heads are the angle of the intake runner bolts. (Cause I bought the wrong heads the first time and had to return them..)
I just looked up the part number in the manual and ordered it from Mac. Unfortunately my rig and everything is still at the repair shop, so I don't have an easy way to check. The head gasket came as part of a full kit though. (I have no desire to boost my engine, with the three speed...
As far as I know, there is only one standard thickness for the head gasket on these things. The military doesn't deck the heads or the block, if they are out of tolerance they get replaced. I'm not sure what the standard thickness is, but gaskets I used were the standard military ones from...
Problem with LiFePO4 batteries I've seen (for automotive use) is that they can't handle cold temps. They won't charge once them temp drops below freezing. Living in Minnesota, half the year can be below freezing so it's no good for me. (They will discharge at colder temps, just not charge.)
From a safety perspective, I'd recommend ordering a couple sets of the wheel o-rings and ship them in. It's a small price to pay to ensure you have the wheels assembled properly, and they won't lose air (and are thus safe to drive on the road.)
As for the inserts, I removed the run-flats from...
I have progressive. Purchased it via my American Family agent (they would have underwritten it, but the AmFam system won't allow a non-standard VIN, Progressive would.). We had an accident, Progressive have seen pictures of the vehicle -- so no surprises it all "just worked".
Edited (read it...
My 1988 M998, the tag says:
Truck Utility: CGO/TRP CARR 1-1/4 TON, 4X4, W/E (HMMWV)
Vehicle Curb Weight - 5200
Payload Maximum - 2500
Gross Weight Maximum - 7700
I assume the 1-1/4 ton is referring to the max payload of 2500 lbs.
Below the green in the first picture is the hose for the washer nozzle.. (there should be one on each side in front of the windows).. Other then that, I'm not sure. Sorry.
I really need to new front doors, I couldn't find any way to get to this link w/o knowing the direct link. I'm willing to spend the $500 for the front doors but just concerned since I couldn't find a way here from the main page there really is no back order in progress right now.
Lots of threads on glow plugs. But the easiest way to tell if what you have is counterfit or not is the size of the hex. Is it 3/8" or 10mm? If it's 3/8" it's probably real (I've read about both 12 and 24V plugs, 12V usually have spade connectors, while 24V are bullet style).. 10mm are...
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