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Think of it this way... if the fuel solenoid is attached and working correctly you have to have power to it for the machine to run. Power pulls the solenoid in and pulls the linkage towards the control panel. To shut the gen off the power to the solenoid is cut which kills the magnetic force...

Simple.... on an 002 / 003, idling will overload the transistors on the voltage regulator and damage the regulator. Seen it plenty of times. on the 802/803 I'm not sure if they are as prone to VR damage from idling, but not looking to take a chance to find out! Just start it up at 1800 to...

If you're looking at -30F an Arctic heater kit is probably a must. If you decide to go with one shoot me a PM, I have one available. as for the 40-50 year old generator.... WHAT?? they only started making the 802 28 years ago and I'm sure he isn't looking at the OLDEST one he can find! rofl...

Mr4BtTahoe, could you please provide your contact's info at Ambac? I called today and was told by Heather , "Unfortunately we no longer sell to the public" She knows I have bought direct before but said I have to go through an authorized dealer from now on. I would like to try going through...

Ok, Text message sent. Let's see what you have going on there!

Yes, that is possible if your pump is really worn or also if the injectors are stuck closed. If you didn't get any fuel out of the #1 line while doing the flow test, something is wrong. Crack the line going into the IP and turn pumps on. If you have fuel then the IP must be bad. If you don't...

First engine read the TM and get a bit familiar with the process, then my method is to remove all the fuel lines and injector lines, including the return hose and hard return line from the injectors. Get the wiring harness out of your way and remove the throttle linkage as well. Next remove the...

If you are comfortable pulling it out you can mail it to me and I can rebuild it for you. I can also talk you through proper steps to remove it as Guy mentioned, proper removal will save you a lot of headaches!

This is what I thought you would find. I believe your plunger guide has skipped and is now either 90* , 180* or 270* out of whack ( the shape of the guide allows the plunger to skip in 90* increments if it doesn't split in half ) If you find you have good flow to the pump but it totally fails...

It is right after the section on pump rebuilding in the Intermediate / Depo level TM -34 Looking at the TM-5-6115-584-34 for the 002A ( 003A is the same ) it is on page 7-39 and 7-40 You want the test they refer to as Timing method 2 Flowing the pump. If your plunger guide skipped 90* or 180* I...

Here is a picture of the PSU plunger from the TM. It's about 5/16" diameter with a slot on one end, the thru-hole is for the drive pin ( which is why they snap right at that hole ) It pumps the high pressure fuel, so the diameter is precise and polished, I presume hardened based on how they...

No, you can not pull the plunger out. You need to disassemble the pump to take the plunger out. As long as it's rotating and pulsing that's enough for now. If the plunger guide or drive pin in the case of a PSU was broken the plunger would not turn. Your assembly sequence is correct. I'd put it...

Maybe you also need to look at the suction side of things and see if you have a loose fitting, cracked line or other point where the pump could be sucking in air instead of fuel?? The smallest air intrusion will cause all kinds of problems!

Absolutely, the Ambac M-50 will drop right in, just need to check the timing button thickness. Everything else is the same. I'm actually considering taking apart a good PSU ( have 1 good machine with a PSU in it ) and taking the plunger to a machine shop to see about the possibility of getting...

To Justacitizen's point, I would have to agree that often times a machine with 1-2K hours often run better than those that have sat around doing nothing and only have a few hours. They seem to start easier, run smoother and perform as they should. Don't get too hung up on age or low hours, judge...

Here we go... side by side photo. Finger is pointing to the screw in the PSU pump. That is the only visual difference on the outside that I know of.... besides the Tag.

The only external visual difference is the large flat head screw pointing straight down from a boss cast into the center of the main body housing underneath. PSU has the screw and M-50 only has the undrilled boss cast into the housing. I have several " Junk" pumps lying around ( unfortunately )...

Uh, Oh! not a good sign. Now look closer and see if is says M50 or PSU on the tag. We recently found a case where a member had an early M50 that was actually built by Bosch in Italy and had a black tag , prior to Ambac taking over and using blue tags. The M50 is a serviceable unit, the PSU...

Once you confirm the delivery valve is ok, you can try doing the static timing test as described in the TM. This may show you if the plunger guide has skipped or not. I would assume that you will find the timing to be completely wrong if it has. While you are in there, try doing a visual check...

Was it a silver cylinder about 2" long and 5/16" diameter with a black wire coming out of each end? One wire attached to the mounting screw on the end of the terminal block? If so, that was a factory installed capacitor.