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I know you say you have had it running fine before, but have you load tested it? If so what were the results? The motor has a slight sound of either low compression in 1 or more cylinders or possibly 1 or more dead injectors or otherwise dead cylinders. I would imagine both of these conditions...

In the video the batteries are not your problem, it's cranking fine. Although after so many failed starts you now may need to charge them again. I think you idea of sluggish is not what Guy was thinking, he thought it was cranking slow, which its really not. In the video each time it dies is it...

You don't need to test with the lines totally disconnected, just loosened. Things may look a little different than I described if the lines are removed completely off the injectors.

There's no way to mess up the timing just by taking out the cap and delivery valve, but if it didn't go back in right you could be getting lots of low pressure fuel instead of a tiny amount of high pressure fuel. The spurts will be TINY, barely a few drops per cycle, you will not have fuel...

Well, oil does not turn into coffee milk shakes unless the motor had been running with water or antifreeze in the oil, it would not look like that just from sitting and getting water in through the flap. Luckily you motor still turns, but you should test your head gasket. Compression test may...

Electronics can often do strange things as their components start to warm up a bit... might be an indication of something that's about to fail completely.

Glad you had a safe and non-eventful trip! You will probably get lucky and have no problems. I've bought plenty of "non-runners" that didn't really need anything other than fuel, oil , filters and batteries, hope you have the same luck!

Off the subject Chief, how's your surgery recovery going? I'm going under the knife next Monday the 9th for bi-lateral hernia surgery. Doc says no lifting more than 25 lbs. for 6 weeks! Like that's gonna be possible! I had foot surgery like 10 years ago and was outside in the snow that...

A couple years ago I had a customer that had found a 200ish. gl tank trailer in Texas and shipped it to RI. It appeared to be Ex-military. I was a steel box about 4' x 6' by about 8" or 10" deep. basically a tank on wheels. It had a fuel level gage , dip tube and return / vent fittings. Mounted...

Other than physical damage like rust pitting near the sealing surfaces or gouging if your impeller was hitting it, there is really no reason to change it at all. You're talking the large 5/16" thick plate that goes between the pump and the end of the head right? Just change the o-rings on the...

I'm leaning towards an issue with the DC VR as it warms up. 33VDC is getting a little too high for your batteries to be happy, they want it more in the 28V range maybe 29 tops.

If your fuel solenoid is pulling in correctly when you attempt to crank, and the linkage is moving freely to the right , next thing I would do is crack the lines on top of the 4 metering pumps, crank from S1 ( not the dead crank switch ) and see if you are getting little spurts of fuel out of...

Ok, was just about to send image, but you got it.

It's possible but not very likely. Start by confirming free and proper movement of the Governor linkage. Then confirm fuel is spurting from the injector lines while cranking with them loose, then we'll go from there. When you reinstalled the delivery valve assembly, was the "Spacer" still intact...

What is the general consensus on the diesel fired coolant heaters? I have a nice 803 with what looks to be a brand new heater in it. Here in the North East, engine coolant heating isn't really necessary. I've started liquid cooled's down into the -5F with no issues and it rarely gets much colder...

It's 4 bolts holding gen to trailer. 3/4" head and nut. ( unless it's been "rigged" by someone ) You'll be fine! I've hauled several of these home at over 350 miles one way with zero problems other than dragging the trailer's light plug down the highway once, when it came out of the holder...

Using 2 people, heat glow plugs for 25 seconds, then 1 person try to start it, the other see if you can push the throttle lever and linkage upward, if it's not lifting up all the way. If it starts, let it run a bit and warm up. Then shut down and try to restart and watch if the linkage is...

By fuel valve do you mean the linkage doesn't lift upwards when the solenoid pulls in?

After you bleed the filters and lines up to the IP by running the pumps, if you want to bleed the injector lines themselves, the best way is to loosen all 4 lines at the injectors and crank the motor for 20-30 seconds. You should start to see a little bit of fuel spurting from each line. At...

No, Moving the switch to start / run does NOT activate the fuel solenoid. The solenoid will not pull in until you turn the switch to the CRANK position. Once you release the switch from cranking ( if it didn't start ) the solenoid will also stay pulled in for a period of time before it releases.