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In addition to Guy's suggestion of measuring F1 and F2, Maybe a recheck of the 6 winding pairs is also in order. The Wheatstone and Kelvin bridge are probably more accurate than a DMM but I've measured them before using a standard DMM and the readings were fairly close. Definitely not Zero...

What about all the winding resistance readings, should be 3.3 ohms on all 6 and he is getting 0 ohms across all? Wouldn't that have to either be 6 incorrect readings or shorts within the windings?

Ah, as usual, you are correct! P10-A goes to X13A8 ground wire. There is a mistake on page 152 paragraph 2 on the right, winding resistance testing. It says P9 and 10 A-F. Should be P10 B-G with A being a ground! Good work looking at the schematic Guy! Now... back to analyzing Chris' other...

Must be the same thing. I'm looking in the TM procedure and it says P10, and the image on page 159 shows the plugs on the gen head being labeled P9 and P10... These are the 2 main power output plugs coming off the gen head. I'd assume the mating plugs on the AC reconnect box are J9 and J10.

Twist it really hard! eventually it will come off, or shred.... one or the other. Strap wrench or real large channel lock pliers. prefill with diesel before installing new one if you want. It will self-bleed through the return line, just leave the pump running for a while, but if you loosen the...

Maybe I'm reading the numbers wrong, but reading #15 P10-A looks like a direct short, doesn't it? The manual says all readings of P9 and P10 to A-F should all be high. A low resistance on any of them should be signs of a shorted rotor shouldn't it?

Hey LITD, I'll make you a deal.... Grab one and let us know if it will work as-is. If you can not use it in it's current form I'll either buy it off you and machine it to fit and throw it in my inventory. Or , mail it to me and I'll rework it for you and send it back. You can't loose!

If those readings are correct your gen head is a gonner. I can see getting readings that are maybe an ohm off, simply due to differences in meters and resistance in your leads, but all open and shorted circuits would seem to indicate catastrophic damage.

That's good news, thank you for verifying that!

What happened?? Did I stick my response in the wrong thread? God, what a dope! Now to reply to the correct thread! How badly did you damage the brass washer? Can you sand it flat with a piece of glass and some 220 grit paper? If it is too far gone you'll have to replace it. As long as your...

Seen similar generic solenoids, but never used one, only originals from Woodward. If the plunger end is something that can be adapted to fit the linkage bar I would imagine it should work. If not, possibly machine the plunger ( slot and thru-hole ) to fit the linkage??

So you are having trouble removing the entire assembly out of the housing after removing the throttle lever and the 4 cap screws? If so, please verify from the ID tag if you have an Ambac M-50 or an American Bosch PSU injection pump. If you have a PSU there is a large flat head screw sticking...

Can you clarify exactly what is happening? It sounds like you have power at the panel since you say you turn the switch slow and allow the fuel pump to run for a while?? If that is true then you issue is at or down stream of the S1 start switch, not the e-stop, CB1 or anything prior to the S1...

Personally I can feel myself regressing backwards lately.... I've probably had 80-90 machines over the last 5 years and had everything from 5 hour units to 4000 hour units. Units that fire right up and those with seized engines. Each time I get a really nice one I say "I'm keeping it for...

Start with Guy's suggestion to open the tank and verify fuel level. If there is fuel, remove the rear cover to access the tank area. Remove the dual float assembly for the aux. pump and low fuel. It will have 2 red and 2 black wires in a single plug. Take it out of the tank and manually...

To add a little bit more info to Chris' post above, while he was here in RI we swapped out both the control cube and AC reconnection box with no change. This is also what led us to both feel that the previous post about the rotating diodes being the problem were most likely correct. At this...

So on your 2nd attempt to use the machine will it crank over normally but will not start up? Or does it not even turn over at all? Also, are you saying it will eventually start back up if you wait a day or more before trying to restart it?

Can you give us more details as far as exactly what is happening when you attempt to start it? Also give us indications as to how long it has to sit before if becomes inoperative. Also by "turn on" I assume you mean the starting of the engine and not activation of the circuit interruptor?

Your best bet is to ditch the float arm sending unit and use the Stainless Marine type units discussed above. It bolts right in and works perfectly. The 802 takes a 5.5" long unit and the 803 needs an 8.5" However, if you do a little research here you will find several other posts about these...

I've only used PRI-D and haven't had any issues, but I'm in New England.... I can say for sure that new low sulfur fuel seems to be no where near as good for long term storage as older stuff, but other than additives there probably isn't any way around it.