MEP-003A

[Guyfang]

For some reason, these sets do not have good ground. Thats why the fuel pumps have the extra star washers.

 

[Johncar48]

The heater was very hard to unscrew from the head and very hard to screw back in as well. The other 3 came out and went back in very smoothly. The hard one was the last cylinder furtherest from the fan.

 

[Chainbreaker]

The heater was very hard to unscrew from the head and very hard to screw back in as well. The other 3 came out and went back in very smoothly. The hard one was the last cylinder furtherest from the fan.

I always use PB Blaster liberally days before I attempt to remove glow plugs or intake heaters. I always reinstall them using Copper anti-seize.

 

[Scoobyshep]

I always use PB Blaster liberally days before I attempt to remove glow plugs or intake heaters. I always reinstall them using Copper anti-seize.

Be careful using copper on aluminum. They dont play well together.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Be careful using copper on aluminum. They dont play well together.

Yep, I understand galvanic corrosion and your comment got me to wondering if it really should be used on any parts in contact with aluminum. Went out to shop and looked on the Permatex bottle and it said: "Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, and fuel filter fittings."

Additionally, the advertising says: "A premium quality copper anti-seize and thread lubricant that may be used to prevent seizing, corrosion and galling where high temperature conditions exist. Contains a high percentage of micro-fine copper flakes in a semi-synthetic grease carrier and is fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors. Temperature range: -30°F to 1800°F (-34°C to 982°C). Provides good electrical conductivity."

So, I'm wondering if the small amount of copper coupled with the petroleum distillates contained within it is what keeps it safe when in contact with aluminum.

 

[Johncar48]

So the CB2 on my MEP 003A had a major "come-apart" yesterday and I cannot find a replacement anywhere. Does anyone know of a good replacement please.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Last time I looked there was one on eBay. Just search under MEP-003a panel circuit breaker.

 

[Guyfang]

Often, using the NSN in the big auction site, you can find all kids of things.

Have you downloaded the TM's?

 

[glcaines]

Permatex has two different anti-seize products. One is called 'Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant' and has small particles of copper in it. They advertise that it is primarily designed to be used on stainless steel or similar alloys. The other product is called 'Anti-Seize Lubricant Advanced Formula'. This product has small particles of both copper and aluminum as well as graphite. I've attached data sheets for both products. Neither data sheet specifically recommends use on aluminum, but the second product contains a mixture of aluminum and copper and anti-corrosion additives so it may be better. I would not use the Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant on glow plugs in aluminum heads or on spark plugs in aluminum heads.

 

[Johncar48]

when you move the start switch to the prime/run position, should this activate the start/stop solenoid?

 

[glcaines]

when you move the start switch to the prime/run position, should this activate the start/stop solenoid?

Yes it activates the solenoid. Sometimes the solenoid can hang up even though I keep it and the linkage lubricated. If the genset doesn't start firing, I release the start switch and manually exercise the solenoid up and down and then attempt a start.

 

[Johncar48]

Is it common to get a pretty good spark when connecting the positive battery terminal to the genes and if yes, why please.

 

[Johncar48]

that should have read genset

 

[Light in the Dark]

On DC systems you should hook up the + first, and end the circuit with a - connection, due to sparking reasons. And disconnect with - first.

 

[Scoobyshep]

You get a spark sometimes. Last connection to be made will do that. Reason you always connect the negative last (or remove first) is because its the same potential as the chassis, no melted wrench if you slip. Positive on the other hand will melt your wrench

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[Ray70]

Yes it activates the solenoid. Sometimes the solenoid can hang up even though I keep it and the linkage lubricated. If the genset doesn't start firing, I release the start switch and manually exercise the solenoid up and down and then attempt a start.

No, Moving the switch to start / run does NOT activate the fuel solenoid.
The solenoid will not pull in until you turn the switch to the CRANK position.
Once you release the switch from cranking ( if it didn't start ) the solenoid will also stay pulled in for a period of time before it releases.

 

[glcaines]

No, Moving the switch to start / run does NOT activate the fuel solenoid.
The solenoid will not pull in until you turn the switch to the CRANK position.
Once you release the switch from cranking ( if it didn't start ) the solenoid will also stay pulled in for a period of time before it releases.

I stand corrected. I was positive I was correct until I went out to my genset and found that you are correct. Thanks for correcting me.

 

[Light in the Dark]

The liquid cooled units are the same way, only actuated at Start.

 

[Johncar48]

So with master switch moved to the prime/run position, this only primes fuel to the pump and does not prime to the injectors. IS this correct please?

 

[Light in the Dark]

Yes it primes the fuel system up the the injection pump (and back through the return line). Once the solenoid retracts the mechanical pump starts its job under starting revolution.