Johncar48
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If the start/stop solenoid is working good but the fuel valve on the side of the IP, sometimes, does not open, what could be the issue?
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MEP-003A
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When was the last time this machine ran, do you have any idea?
Ray70
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After you bleed the filters and lines up to the IP by running the pumps, if you want to bleed the injector lines themselves, the best way is to loosen all 4 lines at the injectors and crank the motor for 20-30 seconds. You should start to see a little bit of fuel spurting from each line. At that point tighten all 4 lines, heat the glow plugs and try to start it. It will probably be sluggish at first, but let it run a bit to work out and residual air in the IP or lines.
Ray70
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By fuel valve do you mean the linkage doesn't lift upwards when the solenoid pulls in?
Johncar48
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Thank is correct. I ran the unit about 3 weeks ago, under load, and it purred. I shut it down after about 30 minutes. The next day I started it up as usual, but failed to hold the start switch in until oil pressure built up. This is when all the problems started. Now the first 2 cylinders (from the fan) don't seem to be getting any fuel. The back 2 blow some heavy black smoke but unit never starts.
Ray70
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Using 2 people, heat glow plugs for 25 seconds, then 1 person try to start it, the other see if you can push the throttle lever and linkage upward, if it's not lifting up all the way.
If it starts, let it run a bit and warm up. Then shut down and try to restart and watch if the linkage is lifting up all the way or just moving a little. If the linkage is binding up or rubbing against the side of the hole where it passes through the sheet metal, it will not start properly.
Also check the plastic rod ends where the linkage snaps together to make sure they aren't cracked or broken.
Also make sure the expandable section of linkage from the IP to the governor arm is working correctly and is pulled into itself when the solenoid is retracted.
The problem should have nothing to do with you not holding the start switch long enough the first time, something else has happened.
If it starts, let it run a bit and warm up. Then shut down and try to restart and watch if the linkage is lifting up all the way or just moving a little. If the linkage is binding up or rubbing against the side of the hole where it passes through the sheet metal, it will not start properly.
Also check the plastic rod ends where the linkage snaps together to make sure they aren't cracked or broken.
Also make sure the expandable section of linkage from the IP to the governor arm is working correctly and is pulled into itself when the solenoid is retracted.
The problem should have nothing to do with you not holding the start switch long enough the first time, something else has happened.
Johncar48
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One thing I failed to mention, right after all the problems started, I removed the IP delivery cap nut, the holder, the gasket the spring and the valve to insure the plunger wasn't stuck. All seemed good so I put everything back in place but it did not help. Could I have buggered something up when I did this. I was very careful to keep dirt away but I did put a small amount of grease on the spring to hold it in place while I reassembled everything.
Ray70
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It's possible but not very likely. Start by confirming free and proper movement of the Governor linkage.
Then confirm fuel is spurting from the injector lines while cranking with them loose, then we'll go from there.
When you reinstalled the delivery valve assembly, was the "Spacer" still intact to hold it in place while you get the cap and spring back in place, or did you have to fight to keep it from falling out of position? If it was intact then chances are almost 100% that everything is fine with the delivery valve.
Also, if it was messed up you would not get any high pressure fuel at the injectors and seemingly there would be no smoke either.
Plus, the issue started before you took the cap off, so more reason to suspect the problem is elsewhere.
Then confirm fuel is spurting from the injector lines while cranking with them loose, then we'll go from there.
When you reinstalled the delivery valve assembly, was the "Spacer" still intact to hold it in place while you get the cap and spring back in place, or did you have to fight to keep it from falling out of position? If it was intact then chances are almost 100% that everything is fine with the delivery valve.
Also, if it was messed up you would not get any high pressure fuel at the injectors and seemingly there would be no smoke either.
Plus, the issue started before you took the cap off, so more reason to suspect the problem is elsewhere.
Johncar48
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Well Sir, I don't recall a spacer. There is a gasket, which is what the TM calls it. Could this be what you're talking about?
Johncar48
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Sorry, didn't answer your question. I used a little grease to help hold the spring in place during reassembly. Spring did not want to cooperate.
Johncar48
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So I looked at a different picture in the TM and there was the spacer. I need to check the out.
Ray70
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Ok, was just about to send image, but you got it.
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Johncar48
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There is no spacer Sir.
Johncar48
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Well Sir, got everything back together but no go. Took all injector line off to make certain fuel was getting there and afirm. getting no smoke from exhaust on cylinders 1 & 2 but getting dark smoke out of 3 & 4 stack. All gov and solenoid linkage working fine along with heaters and glow plugs. Head scratching time and perhaps a cold beer.
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You didn't by chance remove the IP, did you? Because the symptoms sound very much like the IP is 180 degrees out of time.
Johncar48
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No Sir I did not.
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Ray, any chance he could have gotten the timing off, when he had the IP apart?
Johncar48
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With the injector fuel supply line off, when you turn the engine over should you just see a small spurt coming out of the lines or should it be a significant spurt of 6 or 8 inches? Wondering about pressure.
Ray70
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There's no way to mess up the timing just by taking out the cap and delivery valve, but if it didn't go back in right you could be getting lots of low pressure fuel instead of a tiny amount of high pressure fuel.
The spurts will be TINY, barely a few drops per cycle, you will not have fuel spraying out 6-8" by any means!
You will not have any fuel spraying out, it will just barely bubble out around the loosened lines.
If you do have fuel spraying out, go back and double check the delivery valve again. Also, the delivery valve spacer in reality looks nothing like the picture. It is a paper thin plastic ring that goes around the delivery valve to help hold it centered and in place. Some people say you really don't even need it, but you would not be the first person to assemble the delivery valve and have it get out of position, so double check it and report back.
I'm starting to wonder if there is a chance something has gone bad inside the pump, like Guy said... you have signs of either timing off ( I've seen plunger guides skip 90* or 180* ) of other incorrect fuel delivery issues. You may also have an injector issue on #3+4 if the heavy smoke is caused by injectors stuck open and allowing a bunch of low pressure fuel into the cylinders.
The spurts will be TINY, barely a few drops per cycle, you will not have fuel spraying out 6-8" by any means!
You will not have any fuel spraying out, it will just barely bubble out around the loosened lines.
If you do have fuel spraying out, go back and double check the delivery valve again. Also, the delivery valve spacer in reality looks nothing like the picture. It is a paper thin plastic ring that goes around the delivery valve to help hold it centered and in place. Some people say you really don't even need it, but you would not be the first person to assemble the delivery valve and have it get out of position, so double check it and report back.
I'm starting to wonder if there is a chance something has gone bad inside the pump, like Guy said... you have signs of either timing off ( I've seen plunger guides skip 90* or 180* ) of other incorrect fuel delivery issues. You may also have an injector issue on #3+4 if the heavy smoke is caused by injectors stuck open and allowing a bunch of low pressure fuel into the cylinders.