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MEP-003A

Ray70

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It is right after the section on pump rebuilding in the Intermediate / Depo level TM -34
Looking at the TM-5-6115-584-34 for the 002A ( 003A is the same ) it is on page 7-39 and 7-40
You want the test they refer to as Timing method 2 Flowing the pump.
If your plunger guide skipped 90* or 180* I suspect you would find the timing to be completely wrong for cylinder #1.
 

Johncar48

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Well Sirs, followed the TM procedures to the T. No fuel came out of port 1 on the IP. None, not even a spurt of air and I had the fuel pumps on the entire time. Quess I have a bad IP.
 

Guyfang

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You need to understand how the fuel system works. The E2 & E3 electric fuel pumps, never shut off. When they have pumped up the fuel system, the pumps should slow down. Almost stop, but not completely. So if the E2 & E3 pumps are running fast all the time, you are NOT pumping fuel. You are pumping air.

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If you crack the line before the check valve, LOTS of fuel should come out. If you crack the line directly on the IP, LOTS of fuel should come out. Just like the return line from the IP to the fuel tank, should be running lots of fuel back into the tank. If you are not getting fuel to the IP, it can not pump fuel. So your question is very important, in post #84. Better, would be you TELL us what the set will, and will not do.
 

Johncar48

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Got plenty of fuel coming out before nd after the check valve. No signs of air in the lines. I actually forgot about the return line going back to the tank. Had I remembered that I would not have asked the question about pumps running all the time...certainly they do. My bad!
 

Ray70

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Well Sirs, followed the TM procedures to the T. No fuel came out of port 1 on the IP. None, not even a spurt of air and I had the fuel pumps on the entire time. Quess I have a bad IP.
This is what I thought you would find. I believe your plunger guide has skipped and is now either 90* , 180* or 270* out of whack ( the shape of the guide allows the plunger to skip in 90* increments if it doesn't split in half )
If you find you have good flow to the pump but it totally fails the flow timing test as yours did, I suspect the IP needs to come out and be rebuilt.
 

Johncar48

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Yes Sir, that's kinda what I thought. Know a good rebuilder out there somewhere?
I really appreciate EVERYONE'S help and input on the issue. I really enjoy working on diesel generators of 20KW or less and small 4 cylinder aircraft engines. This is my enjoyment in my retirement years. Nothing better than bringing one of these old pups back to life.
Thanks again to all.
 

Guyfang

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Now before you start tearing the thing apart. Read the -34 TM on how to do it right. That includes timing the engine, BEFORE IP removal. It will save much time and hair pulling when you are reinstalling the new/rebuilt IP.
 

Ray70

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If you are comfortable pulling it out you can mail it to me and I can rebuild it for you. I can also talk you through proper steps to remove it as Guy mentioned, proper removal will save you a lot of headaches!
 

Ray70

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First engine read the TM and get a bit familiar with the process, then my method is to remove all the fuel lines and injector lines, including the return hose and hard return line from the injectors. Get the wiring harness out of your way and remove the throttle linkage as well.
Next remove the small flat head screw and copper washer from the left side mounting flange.
Look through the timing window on the bellhousing and turn the engine until the flywheel is at the PC mark, same as you did for the flow timing procedure.
Insert a 1/8" drill bit into the hole where you removed the screw and using a socket rock the crank bolt back and forth and feel if the drill bit is in the slot that is cut in the side of the IP gear. If it is, continue to remove mounting bolts etc. If not, turn the motor 360* until PC comes up again and try the process again.
Once you get it aligned remove the pump and reinstall the screw and washer so it doesn't get lost. Also make sure the shims stay on the engine block.

One Note before you move forward.... When you did the flow test, are you positive you were on #1 compression stroke? If you were 360* off the results of the test will be incorrect.
 

Johncar48

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Location
Kerrville, tx
I pulled the valve cover off to insure all valves were closed. When I saw no fuel coming out of the IP I continued to rotate the crank 360 degrees...twice to insure there was no fuel flow. Nothing came out at all. I also made sure the fuel pumps remained on the entire time. Now, as the TM instruction stated, I did remove the valve spring inside the IP. With no fuel flow, I reinstalled the spring and repeated the flow test. Still no fuel.
 

Johncar48

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Location
Kerrville, tx
Before I pull the IP, I would like to disconnect fuel lines to the injector from the IP and spin the engine with the starter to insure there is or is not fuel flow. Is it possible for the IP to pump fuel to the injectors but not under enough pressure to make them open?
 

Ray70

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Location
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Yes, that is possible if your pump is really worn or also if the injectors are stuck closed.
If you didn't get any fuel out of the #1 line while doing the flow test, something is wrong.
Crack the line going into the IP and turn pumps on. If you have fuel then the IP must be bad.
If you don't have fuel flow, start by checking the check valve to see if its stuck closed, but I think you already did that.
 

Johncar48

Member
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Location
Kerrville, tx
So I removed the injector lines from the IP and turned the engine over utilizing th starter. A lot of fuel came out of port #1 but no other port. I held the IP valve open manually. Trying to upload th video.
 
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