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Got the pistons out. The trick was to put a cap bolt back on and leverage against it to pop out the pistons. #1 piston. Rings were all moving about freely and appear to be in good shape. http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-7-01.JPG #2 piston. The lower ring was free and came off easily...

I pulled the engine off the skid. Wasn't all that heavy with the head off, so I just lifted it by hand and sat it on my table. Power washed the skid to get the oil and grime off it. http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-6-05.JPG Engine on table http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-6-06.JPG...

I do see the letter/numbers, but they are very hard to make out, even after quite a bit of polishing. I can make out some of the markings, which appear to be: EXPLORER 6305-2RS1/JT64 I believe these were already dipped originally. Here are some closeup pics showing the varnish...

Thanks Rusty! Looking in TM9-6115-641-24P, I see that the part number for the rotor bearing is 510-0112. A Google search on "generator bearing 510-0112" gives me the following promising links: https://yakimagenerator.com/generators/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=13284...

Got it off! I sized things up with the 3" wheel (sorry, I thought it was a 4"), but it would have had to be more of a 60 degree angle or something, so I ended up using a 1" on a dremel. I only nicked the rotor shaft ever so slightly at the base where the bearing rests against. (that tiny...

Thanks for the tip! That sounds like a much safer way to go than resorting to a torch. I have a 4" air cut-off wheel, but that might be too much. Will try a few things this evening to see what works.

Yeah, these particular gensets were in pretty bad shape despite being less than 10 years old. I'm focusing on the 2009 unit now and got the generator head separated from the engine. Check out the bearing on the genhead, I don't think I have ever seen a bearing quite that bad off before...

Finally had a chance to work on these some more this weekend. I picked up the one head from the machine shop last week. They had to do quite a bit of work on it. I supplied new valve guides (they were shot) as well as new seals. I paid $48 for the 4 new guides including shipping. The...

Here are some shots of that $100 gasket. Closeup showing the 752-40751 part number Here it is next to the 3 old head gaskets. Note the small red arrows. Each gasket has 1, 2 or 3 holes, indicating the thickness. So on the originals, 2 had 2 holes and 1 had 3 holes. Of course I didn't...

I'll take a pic of the new head gasket tonight. Haven't had a chance to open the box yet! Also, I'm picking up missing parts from a guy that is parting out a couple of these. Here's his description of how to separate the gen head from the engine: 1. Prop up the front engine mounts -- these...

Good to hear. I finally got both my digital bore gauge and 75-100mm micrometer, so I'll be able to take my measurements now of both the pistons and bores. Hopefully everything will be within spec, even after a light hone. Keeping fingers crossed that the rings are in decent shape as well...

Thanks for looking into parts for me Munchies! I do have a local Onan guy that I have been doing business with since the mid 90's. I'll bounce the piston part numbers off him as well. I do have the ID tags for each engine block. They are as follows: 2006: 2007: 2009: The $120 per...

I managed to score the gauge tool for the fuel rack on ebay. I figured this is one procedure I want to get right. Would suck to get it all together and have a run-away engine. I checked with Kraft Power on pistons, they have none of the 0.25mm over, but plenty of the 0.50mm over. The bad...

Does anyone have any experience with setting the fuel pump rack? The TM calls for using this gauge: Here's what it looks like by itself and the part number: Is this tool really necessary or can I manually press in on the rack to ensure that it stays in the shutdown position. If not I...

I believe this is the TM parts manual: http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-9-2815-252-24P.pdf And here's the Lister parts manual: http://tehstar.ru/assets/files/manuals/LISTER%20PETTER%20LPW%2009%20MPM.pdf

Thanks for the tip on honing fluid davo! So I took my cheap Ampro "Precision" Digital Caliper and measured the diameter across the upper region of the front bores on each engine twice (2nd measurement 90 degrees apart from the first). http://www.cstone.net/~dk/802A-2007-6-26-01.JPG I swear...

The head from the 2007 did not clean up 100% from just the evapo-rust. I guess there are limits to what it can do after all, haha. Dropped the head off at the machine shop this morning. He looked it over and said $60 buck to clean it up and do a valve job on it. Sounded reasonable, so I left...

Thanks for the link! Very informative. I'm looking around for a decent digital bore gauge. Always love adding useful tools to my garage.

Curious to find out of these engines had been bored .25 or .50 over already, I decided to take a closer look at the stamps on the pistons. The Lister Petter parts manual states that .25mm oversize pistons have a /025 added to the part number and a .50mm oversize has a /050 added. Well, the...

Unfortunately, the pitting does look that bad (or worse) in person on the 2007. Fortunately pistons are available in 0.25 and 0.50mm oversize. Here's a closeup of the walls on the 2009 for comparison. http://www.cstone.net/~dk/802A-2009-6-24-03.JPG A light hone is all this one needs from...