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THAT'S what's in cement!?! Wonder what happens when rainwater seeps through that? Would think it would get into the soil, no?

I was only suggesting using a welded diff in conjunction with locking hubs, which would completely eliminate any wear and tear on the drivetrain. With that said, I actually prefer to run a spool instead of a locker in most lighter off-road vehicles. Especially lifted, short-wheelbase vehicles...

Take pictures! (or video)

Have heard they're kinda hard to find (and expensive). Other options would be to run a transfer-case PTO or a power-steering pump off a 5-ton MF engine.

The second part of this is that makes me think you should stick to the first part.

Oh I know, just quoted to lead into that link because I thought some of the people that read what oldman posted (was a good explanation) might wonder. Not deuce-specific, I know...

Thanks for the explanation, but I know how lockers and spools work. What I was asking is what you think the problem would be if a spool (or a welded diff) was used in an axle with locking hubs, and the hubs were unlocked when the vehicle was driven on-road. I think it would work just fine...

What is that transmission out of? What's it all about? Looks like a neat project! Build thread?

For what? An Allison? Imagine it would be a LOT cheaper to swap-in some kind of compatible manual transmission from a medium-duty truck. Haven't started researching it yet, but imagine I'll end up going that way eventually (instead of just installing an OD kit).

I've seen a few pictures posted on here, seems silly. I mean, compared to just replacing the transmission with something else altogether. Too many compromises with a gear splitter for my liking.

Just wondering, what's your objection to welding-up the diff? A full spool from OEM costs $500 and welding-up the diff is free. If you're only doing this on one of the rear axles, say the middle, and that axle would not be driven on-road (free-wheeling), what's the problem?

Hmmm, guess it's all a matter of perspective. I don't think any of that stuff sounds like much trouble at all. I replaced my transfer-case a while ago (and I'm going to have to do it again) and it wasn't too bad. I also have the cab off Mah Deuce right now, so I went out and took a few...

Short enough to fit without moving the transfercase? What would be the big deal with moving it back a bit? Modifying the driveshafts? Something else I'm missing?

Say what? Not arguing, just don't have a clue. ...and interested because one of the ways I was thinking about adding a receiver hitch to Mah Deuce was with a quick-release 3-point setup.

If you're on a tight budget, you might want to consider just welding-up the spider-gears on one of the read axles instead of spending the cash on another locker. If you weld-up the middle diff, and run only put power to the rear axle on-road, you won't know it's there until you need it.

moving the transfercase back looks like it would be EZ.

Thanks for the lecture. Take a look at the title of this forum and then take a look at the range of topics, some of which are STRICTLY ILLEGAL. haha.

Have a brand new cab sitting next to Mah Deuce that I had sandblasted and primed. Been thinking about what I want to apply to the inside and underside. Thanks for all the good info posted here.

Having custom rods made is no big deal, and we've talked about having ARP make some studs for the stock rods to see if that might be a step in the right direction.

Thanks. But that boarding ramp is all that's left of it. Ditched the uhaul to build a new custom trailer. Putting a small HF-type hoist in the back, but would like to have a lift-gate instead if I can swing it...