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A fuel supply issue would buck and snort on acceleration, not deceleration. It sounds like you have a bad mount or mounts somewhere or maybe a bad U-joint, could be some major axle wrap or other axle movement causing it too.

Come on now, it was only 200 miles. I didn't think it was that much further...

I'd make a hard run straight through to help you if you needed it Robert. You know that.

I'd like to keep all my toes...:D

Take the cable off the back of the tach and see if it spins with the engine running. It may be a bad tach. If the tach is ok I can probably get you what you need off a truck that I have here destined for a Chinese crucible.

Check your motor and transmission mounts. Use a pry bar and try to lift up on them.

So if the ground from alternator to frame is bad the voltage will be high but the truck will still start on the batteries.

If I remember correctly counter clockwise decreases voltage. Hook up a good multimeter to the batteries and watch it as you adjust with the engine running. I say check your grounds because my battery to frame copper ring terminal just broke off recently with no prior signs of distress other than...

Yeah I just verified myself. To my defense I've never been an exhaust welding technician other than on my own vehicles. I've always just done fab work with mild steel. Apparently it holds fine, the welds just rust so it needs to be painted.

I've been welding for a long time and never seen or heard of anyone welding stainless to mild steel at all, much less with a mig. I'm not saying your wrong, I don't know everything. Just never heard of it.

Check/ clean/ replace the ground lead from the generator to the frame, and from the rear battery to the frame.

Well poop.... I want a muffler I can weld in with my mig, and IF I ever decide to install one I'm going to try and install it down in the wheel well section of the J pipe just after the flex pipe. Before any of that though I need to find a place that does good custom exhaust work and get a new J...

Do they make a non stainless version?

That was my thought.

Get ahold of member Taylortradingco. I just got one from him last weekend. It is the same master cylinder and air diaphragm as an M105a2 trailer uses.

If you decide to $hitcan the old style handle you will have to replace the cable with the new style as well. I prefer the new style myself as it feels like it locks more positively and you can tell if it needs adjustment by the feel of it.

I've been DDing mine for over a year now. Gone on quite a few pretty long road trips too. Mine hasn't let me down yet, and has never failed to start. But I keep up with the maintenance. Packing hubs, replacing brake wheel cylinders and lines, changing engine coolant, keeping clean fuel filters...

I need to find a good injector shop around me and have a couple sets of injectors pop tested and set. It may not matter on my current engine as I believe that I now have a cylinder burning oil after this last roadtrip, but I definitely want to get the injectors in my LDS set before it goes in.

I like the meters too. So are you feeding it three phase and pulling off the separate legs or what? I need to do this but I'm not sure how to go about it. I will be permanently installing mine inside my shop feeding the main panel onto the property.

Oh alright. I thought it was just a bolt to hold the reiforcement plate on. I'll undoubtedly weld mine on when I get it. Not the steering box, the reinforcement plate. Once I go power steering I'm not going back so I might as well.