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I you really want a a C turbo I'll sell you one of mine. Pm inbound.

Will you be adding gusset plates to the inside corners of your winch mount? I like your thinking on the setup. How far back do you have to move the bed? Like 4-6" it looks like, but hard to get scale from the picture of the winch and mount.

I've always had good luck with my Miller and Hobart machines. Never had any luck at all with a Lincoln machine. I wouldn't pi$$ on one if it was on fire... Or plugged in.... Im sure plenty of people have had great luck with Lincoln machines, but I'm done with them.

Looks good. 3/8" plate? 12v? Are you mounting it above or below the frame rails?

Mine will get up to 12 psi pulling a grade right now with the LDT. Will do the same pulling something heavy. I just have to be mindful to keep it around 10psi on longer grades with throttle control.

Mine had a little slack when I installed it, but not much. I'm about to put my old D back on. I pull too much heavy stuff here lately and I remember the difference going from the D to the C. No big deal to swap it out when I fell that I want the whistle back, but I need to get it rebuilt first...

My C turbo has served me well on quite a few long road trips and some heavy load moving, and some long distance heavy load moving. I can tell that it doesn't let me pull a grade like my D turbo did though. My C is starting to burn oil out the exhaust side seal now though...

I was thinking the same thing. Shortest introduction I've seen yet. Site wouldn't even let me post on this thread earlier.

If it isn't burning oil and doesn't have a lot of shaft play $400 is fair. If you can find one that needs a rebuild for $150-$200, a rebuild will cost you about $300. So for $450-$500 you could have basically a new turbo.

Harbor freight sells them for like $50... Worth a shot if you don't care to be a hood flipper. And the only reason Hobart is any good is because they learned from Miller.

I agree, problem is that none of us own it so we really have no say in what he does with it. Shame really.

Could someone link the thread showing how he eliminated it?

Only thing I don't care for is the 6v. 12 volt is bad enough when it gets cold.

Yes peashooter made or makes a kit with an adapter and switch included. A very clean setup it is indeed. The shaft that actuated it is the sprag engagement shaft that comes out of the rear of the transmission case near the top on the passenger side.

I thought adding pressure to anything other than the bell housing was asking for a leak?

Close the heater valves, put your cardboard in front of the radiator and let it run. Diesel fuel is cheaper than another engine.

Use a small propane torch and heat the cylinder head of the compressor carefully. Do the same with the governor. You should have the truck running for this. You'll know as soon as whatever is stuck pops loose. Just be extra careful on the governor as it has rubber o-rings in it.

I would put that bed on a shortened deuce! Like a mini M756, that would be sweet!

Have you checked the fluid level in the master cylinder lately? Still, you need to go through each hub and check each wheel cylinder as you go. My brakes felt fine albeit a bit weak when I got my truck, no signs of leaking brakes either. When I did go through and pack all the bearings I found...

Good idea to install a coolant filter kit then. I just installed one myself and I'm loving it.