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The CRC is just fine. Check your connections and make sure someone hasn't swapped the 16 and 91 leads both on the back of the headlight bucket and the connections to the bulbs themselves. It's an easy mistake to make. The pushbutton light switches have their own special set of gremlins and one...
The wiring to the headlights are wires 16, 17, and 91. Wire 91 is the ground lead and needs a good connection to work properly. 16 and 17 are fed from the master light switch through the floor dimmer switch. There's a spray called DeOxit that you can find at Home Defect or Lowes and most...
The shifter disconnects from the linkages with a couple of cotter pins and the 2 leads from the neutral start switch, then lifts out the top. You shouldn't have to change any adjustments. I installed rivnuts in the floor panel and that turns this into a one man job.
There are test and repair manuals for the 60 amp alternators on the Southern Automotive site here: http://www.southernautomotive.com/catalog/index.php/
They are also a repair parts source for either the Prestolite or Leece-Neville alternators.
There is a reverse wire in the ambulances but not in the standard 998. I teed my backup light power off the lead that powers the shifter light figuring if I wanted to keep them from coming on I'd just leave the master light switch panel lamp switches off. I did replace both backup light lamps...
Are you talking about where the 2 bailout connectors meet or where the cable connects to the radio? I've got plenty of both the 161s and cables and have never experienced this problem.
I'm in the process of building up amplified speakers now and wondered how much onterest there would be in them? Please send me a PM if this is of interest to you.
Are you trying to put a 3900 antenna mast onto a 6707 base? It's going to need more than a size adapter as the center contact in the 3900 is round and the contact in the 1729 is a horseshoe shape.
Take a look in the radionerds sub-site at the top of the Radio and Electronics forum. Chris has all of these manuals available for download. Be aware that you need more than a multimeter to align these radios. A good signal generator and frequency counter along with a precision voltage source...
HEAT is a bad thing. The 23.8v your seeing is the battery voltage, not the alternator output. A running alternator should output around 27.5 - 28.5 volts which will put the voltmeter gauge needle on the line in the green section of the gauge. I would pull the alternator and remove the rear...
Just change the termination ring lug and attach it to one of the 10mm starter bolts. That or see if a local welding shop can tack weld another bolt to the body of the starter.
KOA Petaluma has notified us that reservations without deposits will be considered as available to the public as of February 2nd. If you plan on attending this Aprils meet it is imperative that you get a deposit on your site, cabin, or lodge within the next 48 hours or you run the risk of losing...
In the long rum wouldn't it be easier and considerably cheaper to do a differentail swap for better road speeds? There are 2.56 and 2.73 differentials out there that would give you almost a 20% increase over the 3.08 diffs we find in most trucks. Am I off base here?
Just as a fast addendum you might want to look at the fuel lines themselves to make sure you don't have a cracked line sucking air. There are lines on the top of the tank and more up around the filter.
My recommendation is to change the fuel pump. Here's a link to a perfectly good pump that I've installed in several vehicles without any problems: https://www.carid.com/spectra-premium/mechanical-fuel-pump-mpn-sp1143mp.html?singleid=78059414 Before you start this job pick up the fuel pump...
The fuel gauges in these trucks are notoriously inaccurate. In my M996A1 I'll refuel when the gauge reads empty after around 200 miles. My normal refuel is around 19 gallons so if the tank is 25 gallons you can see I have a healthy error in the reading. At empty I still have around 5 gallons...
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