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I've never seen a really good explanation as to why you can't put a CUCV starter in a HMMWV. Half the weight.

The AMC Eagle calipers and pads will work for the front rotors and as cheap as they are it's a recommended changeout for the fronts. I've never tried them in the rear and that will be dictated whether you have the standard calipers or the dual pull Wildwood calpiers with the integral rear E...

It's the same thickness as the mounting ear. It's a steel insert that helps keep the aluminum casting from breaking off.

Heck Norm, I almost always paid at least 100 Baht for a love note, even in Sattahip! Guess I'll follow you around next time! You only going short time? LOL I think the first thing I'd do here is a filter, flush and fill on the trans. I can't imaging where you could be getting clear fluid...

The -40 depot level manuals are the hardest to find and go into detailed repair and overhauls. For instance, they will tell you how to replace the diodes in the alternators where the -30 manual will just tell you to replace the rectifier plate. A lot of their diagnostics and troubleshooting...

In the TM9 series manuals the -10 manual contains information an operator would need to have. operation instructions, road speeds, capacities, weights The -20 series manuals are generally for troubleshooting. Flow charts, special tools, diagnosing starting, cooling, electrical or shifting...

6150014137946 19207 12460070 bus,conductor

Are you sure it's the master light switch? The flasher units are notorious failure points. Search around, there are numberous articles about replacing or upgrading them online. And a word (or two) of advice: Before you do anything with the switch disconnect the batteries. The push button light...

The B pillar is considerably heavier than the C pillar and would be some serious overkill as a C pillar. Not to mention youd have to add all the common sense fasteners to it. And yes, that's the real name for those 1/4 turn fasteners used to hold the top on. I have 2 new black C pillars on...

Dave's pretty handy at almost anything along these lines and I'm sure if you tell him what you want he'll deliver a quality product. Right now he's doing a set of the bench seats in the back of my M996 ambulance for me. After 30 years they've begun to split from dry rot so I'm having them...

Just get under there and smell it, touch it and figure out what the heck it is. The 2 fluids are distinctly different in texture and smell and it should be obvoiuus what it is when you do that. If it looks like brake fluid and smells like brake fluid your probably wasting your time replacing...

For the same $100 WeeBee Webbing will make you high back uppers and lowers in Cordura nylon in any color you want. They replace the current worn canvas backs and are held on with the "C" clips Isringhausen used on the originals.

Does anyone on the forum know if the wiring to the AJ-107 connectors on the bailout cords is standardized or is it left to the whim of the manufacturers? I'm trying to find out if the General Dynamics bailout cords are compatible with the ones used with the Racal Raptor headsets.

In the early trucks the first aid kit was stowed in a bracket alongside the battery compartment. The high back seat upgrade doesn't allow anything but the dricers logbook and -10 manual under the seat.

If your designing things for 24 volt vehicles then design them to operate on 24 volts. For those of us who understand electrical circuits it's a no-brainer but to a lot of new people the electrical system is one of the most difficult systems to work on. Your design is perfect otherwise. Simple...

Times and Location?

NormB, that switch is the same as the commercial ones without the wires and connectors. They sell at almost any parts store for under $15. just Google "neutral start switch" and you'll find them.

Dave and Donna at WeeBee Webbing in Ohio can make you up seat covers for your HMMWV. I've used them to recover my seats twice now with cordura nylon covers and their fit and finish is excellent. You can find them at www.odcloth.com

It's good to see someone taking the reins down in the Central region again. The MVCC began it's life down that way, back in the early '70s I was aware of a meet in Buttonwillow but was never able to make it. Just seemed a bit too far to drive a 45 mph M37. We still have a number of members in...

My advice if your going to rebuild your harness would be to use marine type heat shrink splices. That way you end up with a solid, water tight seal on the splice thay won't corrode when water or road salt gets splashed on it. Amazon has heat shrink crimps, heat guns, ratchetting crimp tools...